Fashion
#WearableWednseday with designer Eka Lakhani
In light of her latest release Kaatru Veliyidayi, FWD caught up with costume designer Eka Lakhani who garnered a name for herself with movies such as OK Kanmani and Urumi
Words: Fathima Abdul Kader Images: Eka Lakhani
There is nothing like learning from one of the masters of design in the nation to ensure the right education in costume designing. Eka Lakhani, with a number of great projects to her name, started her career as an assistant costume designer to Sabyasachi Mukherjee in Raavanan and Raavan. Her later works garnered mass acclaim, especially with movies such as OK Kanmani, NH10 and Kaatru Veliyidai. When asked about the response to her latest work Kaatru Veliyidai, Eka Lakhani said “While I have received some negative feedback here and there, generally it has been great. Since Aditi Rao Hydari is stunning anyways, she pulled everything off with such ease. I think a big part of a great costume is when whoever is wearing it is comfortable wearing it and they look at ease.”
Meant to be
For someone who swoons at the thought of raiding Sonam Kapoor’s wardrobe, it is surprising to know that Eka Lakhani rebelled initially at the thought of studying design. The designer’s father – Bharath Lakhani is a pioneer in the field of textile in Mumbai and she recounted how she fought tooth and nail not to study design, “There was a point in time when my father took me to National Institute of Design to show me around, but I rebelled profusely claiming that I am an intelligent girl and how can you assume that I’d want to go into the arts field just because that is our family business.”
Her father honored her wishes and asked her to try her hand at studying what she wanted, but said that he had hopes she will come back to the field. What her father foresaw happened two years into her undergraduate studies and she went on to join SNDT PVP to get her degree in fashion/apparel design and winning two awards at the final show – for best construction and collection of the year – was the right ego boost to pursue the career even more. She later went to Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and did courses on fashion design, fashion styling and costume designing.
After coming back to India, she was still torn between choosing her area of focus but her first movie project helped her to make up her mind and she went on to say “when I started working on Raavan, I was still contemplating doing high fashion, but the one year when I was working as the assistant costume designer for Sabyasachi Mukherjee, helped me make up my mind and realize that costume design is what I want to.” Eka Lakhani made her solo costume design debut with the Malayalam film Urumi, followed by the Tamil film Kadal and a number of other great movies.
Making a signature
That particular skirt that Nithya Menon wore in OK Kanmani, the striped tee shirt and jacket that Anushka Sharma wore in NH10, there is a reason behind every piece of apparel that a character wears. While every costume designer’s process varies, for Eka Lakhani designing starts from the script level – look at the story and the character and start creating character sketches. She went on to say, “while working with Sabyasachi Mukherjee for Raavan, it was hammered into my head that every piece of clothing that we give to a character needs to have a reason; whether she wears a big tote bag, backpack or sling bag all depends on the character’s occupation, mood, situation in the movie etc. If the character is going through a hard time, they wouldn’t necessarily dress in the way they’d normally dress.”
While “the bigger the better” is a mantra many like to use, Eka Lakhani is a lover of realistic costume designs and prefer such works to elaborate costume dramas. Especially movies like Highway or Udta Punjab where you can only work with a limited number of pieces is a great challenge that she would have liked to have worked on. That being said, Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s theatrical movies are a costume designer’s dream come true and getting to work in something like Ram Leela or Bajirao Mastani is a dream that she has been nurturing. Eka Lakhani’s latest work Haseena starring Shraddha Kapoor opens on July 14, 2017. The costume designer with a love for realistic character designs has worked with the likes of Santhosh Sivan and Mani Ratnam and has a number of intriguing movies that are awaiting release.
Wardrobe Staples:
Haseena
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Kaatru Veliyidai
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Ok Jaanu
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Urumi
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Fashion
The Year of Statement Hat
When Anya Taylor-Joy stepped out at this year’s Cannes Film Festival in Jacquemus’ Le Chapeau Bomba, a delightfully oversized raffia hat it was clear that this accessory had become the season’s ultimate statement piece. The fall 2024 runways echoed this sentiment, with Chanel and Prada showcasing hats as the new must-have. Think of Sarah Jessica Parker’s oversized Maryam Keyhani creation, worn on the set of And Just Like That… earlier this year, or Margaret Qualley donning Chanel’s nautical style at Cannes. These hats are for the main characters who command attention, making a bold statement long before you arrive.
Altuzarra’s fall 2024 collection featured boxy headpieces on some models, each designed to evoke a specific character. “It was about finding joy in wearing a complete look, fully embodying a character,” explains designer Joseph Altuzarra. Interestingly, this was the label’s first foray into hats beyond casual knit and woven styles. ‘We didn’t plan to sell them,’ Altuzarra admits, ‘but they ended up being a hit.
Similarly, milliner Gigi Burris O’Hara has experienced a surge in demand. Although she launched her brand, Gigi Burris, in 2012, she only opened her first store late last year. “During leaner times, when people become more selective with their spending, they seek joy in thoughtful purchases,” she explains.
After years of embracing a more casual style, we’re now gravitating toward all things expressive. Maximalist content creator Sara Camposarcone has been embracing pieces from small brands like Potion23, renowned for its whimsical, witchy hats. “I feel like I can now wear bolder headpieces that complement my extravagant outfits,” Camposarcone shares. “Since discovering vintage fashion, I’ve developed a passion for finding great vintage pillbox hats or a 1920s fascinator.”
Fashion
The Iconic Bags and Their Names
Handbags are more than just functional accessories; they are statements of style and symbols of status. Over the years, several handbags have achieved iconic status, becoming synonymous with luxury and timeless fashion. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic bags and the stories behind their names.
Hermès Birkin
Origin: The Birkin bag was born from a chance encounter between actress and singer Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1981. Birkin mentioned her struggle to find a perfect weekend bag, leading Dumas to design a bag tailored to her needs.
Icon Status: The Birkin is known for its exclusivity, craftsmanship, and high price tag. It has become a symbol of wealth and luxury, often with a waiting list of years.
Chanel 2.55
Origin: Created by Coco Chanel in February 1955 (hence the name), the Chanel 2.55 was revolutionary for its time, introducing the concept of a shoulder bag, freeing women from the inconvenience of clutch bags.
Icon Status: With its quilted leather, chain strap, and distinctive CC lock (added in the 1980s by Karl Lagerfeld), the 2.55 remains a timeless piece, beloved by fashionistas worldwide.
Louis Vuitton Speedy
Origin: Introduced in the 1930s, the Speedy was designed as a smaller version of the Louis Vuitton Keepall. It became particularly popular in the 1960s when Audrey Hepburn requested a smaller version, leading to the creation of the Speedy 25.
Icon Status: Known for its classic monogram canvas and practicality, the Speedy is a versatile bag that has remained a staple in the fashion world for decades.
Dior Lady Dior
Origin: First presented in 1994, the Lady Dior bag was initially known as “Chouchou.” It gained its iconic status when Princess Diana was photographed with it in 1995, leading to its renaming in her honor.
Icon Status: The bag’s signature cannage stitching and dangling Dior charms make it instantly recognizable. It’s a favorite among celebrities and royalty, symbolizing elegance and sophistication.
Gucci Jackie
Origin: Originally called the Fifties Constance, this bag was renamed the Jackie after Jackie Kennedy was frequently photographed carrying it in the 1960s.
Icon Status: The Jackie bag’s hobo shape and piston strap closure make it a timeless piece. It has seen numerous revivals and remains a classic in the Gucci lineup.
Prada Galleria
Origin: Named after the historic Prada boutique in Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the Galleria bag epitomizes the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship.
Icon Status: With its clean lines, structured shape, and Saffiano leather, the Galleria bag is a symbol of modern elegance and understated luxury.
Fendi Baguette
Origin: Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997, the Baguette was named for its shape, resembling the French baguette loaf, and designed to be carried under the arm.
Icon Status: Popularized by its appearance on the TV show “Sex and the City,” the Baguette became a must-have accessory, famous for its countless variations in colors and materials.
Balenciaga City
Origin: Introduced in the early 2000s, the Balenciaga City bag, also known as the Motorcycle bag, was designed by Nicolas Ghesquière. Its casual yet chic design quickly gained a cult following.
Icon Status: Known for its slouchy silhouette, distinctive hardware, and tassels, the City bag became an icon of the 2000s and continues to be a beloved piece.
These iconic bags have transcended fashion trends, becoming enduring symbols of style, craftsmanship, and luxury. Each bag tells a unique story, adding to its allure and making it a coveted piece for fashion enthusiasts around the world. Investing in one of these iconic bags is not just about owning a stylish accessory but also a piece of fashion history.
Cover Story
Sonam Kapoor Ahuja’s Traditional Ladakh’s Heritage Attire
As Anant Ambani’s pre-wedding festivities come to an end, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja chose to dress in Ladakh traditional garb. The event featured a number of topics, with India’s rich past being the focus yesterday night. Sonam Kapoor Ahuja emphasized this by dressing in Namza Couture, which was established in 2016 by Padma Yangchan and Jigmet Disket and is renowned for its commitment to Ladakhi fabrics.
The Mogos, a gown-like item with a shimmering zari border and pistachio green brocade, was part of Sonam’s ensemble. She wore a rani-pink shawl called a “Bok,” which is usually made from silk or goat skin and is worn to keep warm by the locals. This outfit was made of silk by Benaras artisans, and it had intricate phoenix embroidery, which stands for knowledge and vigor. It also had a crane image, which stands for prosperity and peace.
Her jewelry selections also honored custom; she wore a neckpiece set with diamonds and an emerald stone in the center. She accessorized this with striking statement rings and copper handcuffs, all tastefully matched with pearl earrings. She chose metallic juttis to complete her look, and she carried a bespoke purse by re-ceremonial.
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