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Unravelling the History of Navaratna Jewelry

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Beautiful jewelry has a long history in India, a country with a diverse cultural landscape, and it goes beyond simple decoration. Navaratna jewelry stands out among the many different types of jewels as a representation of cultural significance and artistic excellence. We’ll take a trip down memory lane to learn more about the intriguing background of Navaratna jewels in India in this blog post.

“Navaratna” means “nine gems” in Sanskrit, and this particular type of jewelry is set with nine distinct gemstones, each of which stands for a different heavenly body. It is believed that the placement of these jewels in the jewelry has astrological significance and will benefit the wearer in terms of prosperity, health, and general well-being. The diamond, ruby, emerald, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, coral, pearl, hessonite, and cat’s eye are the commonly recognized nine jewels. In Vedic astrology, each gem is linked to one of the nine planets.

Old Indian writings such as the Garuda Purana and Vedic astrology are where Navaratna jewelry first appeared. According to these books, one can balance their life and harness the planetary forces by using particular gemstones.

Navaratna jewelry underwent a design evolution over the course of centuries, embracing elaborate designs and inventive craftsmanship. India’s various regions has created their own distinct styles, each of which tells a tale of the blending of cultures that distinguishes the nation.

Navaratna jewelry is still a beloved and sought-after form in modern times. Although conventional designs hold great value, contemporary jewelers explore novel materials, settings, and styles to accommodate a wide range of tastes and preferences.

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Luxury

Cartier’s New High Jewellery Collection is a Love For The Wild

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In 2021, the American Museum of Natural History in New York presented Beautiful Creatures, an exhibition showcasing some of the most eccentric jewellery designs of the past century. One standout piece was the iconic crocodile necklace of Mexican actress María Félix, a loyal Cartier patron. Félix, renowned for her bold sense of style, famously strolled into Cartier’s Paris store in 1975 with her pet crocodile, requesting a necklace in its likeness. Cartier delivered, crafting two intertwined crocodiles encrusted with over a thousand emeralds and yellow diamonds. For Félix, crocodiles symbolized freedom, an embodiment of the spirit she associated with Mexico’s Golden Age of cinema.

Fast forward to today, and Félix’s wildest dreams seem to have come to life at Cartier’s latest high jewellery collection, Nature Sauvage, previewed at the historic Kursalon Hübner gallery in Vienna. Among the star pieces is the Koaga necklace, a masterful creation where a zebra clasps an emerald-cut diamond and a 6.25-carat pear-shaped rubellite in its mouth. The zebra’s form is exquisitely rendered in alternating onyx stripes and pavé diamonds, making the creature feel almost lifelike.

The relationship between animals and jewellery has deep mythological roots, often glorified through rituals and symbolism. In ancient Egypt, scarab beetles were worn as earrings to signify respect for life’s cyclical nature. Meanwhile, in Hellenistic Greece, gods and goddesses took on the forms of winged creatures in adornment. So, what is it about animal-themed jewellery that continues to captivate us? According to Amanda Triossi, a jewellery historian based in Rome, the allure lies in our primal instincts: “Wearing wild animals like panthers or tigers gives one the sense of having conquered them. It’s empowering, as if you inherit the animal’s strength and attributes.”

Cartier captures this essence beautifully in its Amphista necklace. Featuring two intertwined snakes with diamond scales set with emeralds, their heads adorned with kite-shaped diamonds, the necklace echoes ancient Chinese philosophy’s yin-yang balance. The pièce de résistance? Nine octagonal Colombian emeralds, weighing a total of 14.72 carats.

Triossi also notes that many historical heroes are often depicted draped in the skins of animals they’ve vanquished, a symbol of triumph. Today, jewellery transforms that symbol into something precious and eternal—animal skins reimagined in imperishable materials.

Later that evening, at a celebration held at Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches Museum, the largest in Austria, the enchantment of Cartier’s collection was heightened. The museum’s octagonal domes featured paintings of animals dancing with angels, setting the stage for a magical night. Guests were greeted by masterpieces such as Rembrandt’s Self-Portrait and Caravaggio’s Madonna of the Rosary, alongside Cartier page boys in their signature red hats. The evening’s soundtrack, a seamless blend of Bach and Kygo, was curated by DJ Gillian Sagansky, lending a modern twist to the classical ambiance.

The following day brought another cultural adventure—a visit to Otto Wagner’s Villa, a stunning summer palace designed by the famed architect. The paintings adorning the villa’s walls depicted animals in various forms—some caught in purgatory, others wandering the biblical bardo, with alligators restlessly emerging from swampy landscapes.

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Indian Craftsmanship Meets Italian Savoir Faire : Rahul Mishra x Tod’s

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Quiet luxury was expected to dominate for a while, with many predicting that the return of bold, extravagant fashion would take its time. However, maximalism seems to be making a swift comeback, especially in the realm of designer collaborations. Hot on the heels of the vibrant, print-heavy H&M x Anamika Khanna collection, another limited-edition line has arrived, celebrating opulent luxury: Rahul Mishra x Tod’s.

As part of Tod’s T-Factory project, which features exclusive collaborations with creative innovators, this marks Indian couturier Rahul Mishra’s debut in the international accessories space.

Mishra is a true ambassador of Indian design. Along with his wife Divya Mishra, he leads his eponymous label, which has brought the essence of India to the global stage in remarkable ways. A regular at Paris Fashion Week and the first Indian designer to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Week, his creations have adorned celebrities like Zendaya and Mark Zuckerberg, and have graced magazine covers in South Korea, China, and Europe. With such a path-defining legacy, it’s no surprise that Mishra and his visionary label were Tod’s natural choice for their first-ever Indian collaboration.

Mishra describes this collaboration as a beautiful fusion of “Italian craftsmanship serving as the canvas for Indian vision.” Tod’s iconic Gommino loafers and mules, along with the Di Bag and T Timeless shoulder bag, have been reimagined with intricate resham embroidery, crystals, and sequins—all meticulously hand-embroidered at Mishra’s atelier in Noida. “It was a technically challenging process that took time to perfect. I can confidently say these are some of the finest bags and shoes you’ll ever witness, in terms of craftsmanship and longevity. Such pieces are forever,” Mishra proudly shares.

Crafted entirely between India and Italy, the limited-edition pieces from this collection are a true love letter to the artisanal heritage of both nations. “There’s a beauty in the teamwork here,” Mishra explains. “We received raw materials from Italy and worked on integrating our embroideries seamlessly into their leather. The pieces were then sent back to Tod’s, where they transformed them into stunning, three-dimensional products. In that sense, it’s been a genuine collaboration between Italy and India.”

Mishra firmly believes that the future of global design will be shaped by a global Indian aesthetic. “Just as French, Italian, British, and Japanese designs are now seen as universal,” he explains. This collaboration marks a significant step in advancing that narrative. “When you push the boundaries of ‘handmade in India’ to be respected at the pinnacle of luxury, everything else will naturally follow,” he emphasizes.

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Timeless Jewelry Pieces to Invest in for a Lifetime

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Yves Saint Laurent famously remarked, “Fashions fade, style is eternal,” and this sentiment perfectly encapsulates the essence of building a jewelry collection meant to last a lifetime. Certain classic pieces have transcended time, achieving iconic status and adding instant sophistication to any ensemble.

With the festive season approaching, it’s the perfect time to invest in jewelry that can be cherished for generations. These timeless creations, adored by Hollywood stars and royalty alike, are always a wise choice. From the instantly recognizable Cartier Love bangle to Chanel’s classic pearls, De Beer’s diamond studs, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ lucky Alhambra talisman, here are 10 truly special pieces to buy now and wear forever.

For those seeking more budget-friendly options, don’t forget to explore these affordable jewelry brands as well.

 

The Cartier Tank Watch

Introduced in 1919, the Cartier Tank Watch was inspired by the armored vehicles of World War I, with its sleek design reflecting the tracks of early tanks. Its timeless elegance has ensured a devoted following ever since.

The Tiffany & Co. Open Heart Pendant

Designed by Elsa Peretti, who joined Tiffany & Co. in 1974, the Open Heart pendant features a sleek, open-centered heart inspired by Henry Moore’s sculptures. Its modern yet classic design remains a favorite.

The Chanel Pearl Earrings

Pearls add an instant touch of sophistication, and Chanel’s pearl earrings are a perfect example. Coco Chanel famously adored pearls, and her fashion house continues to celebrate them with elegant designs that remain stylish.

The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Necklace

First launched in 1968, the Alhambra necklace is inspired by the Alhambra Palace in Spain. Its design, featuring clover-shaped motifs and vibrant semi-precious stones, remains a Van Cleef & Arpels signature.

The Bulgari Serpenti Watch  

Since the 1940s, Bulgari’s Serpenti collection has embodied the allure of the serpent. Elizabeth Taylor’s famous appearance wearing the Serpenti watch in “Cleopatra” cemented its iconic status.

The Boodles Diamond Tennis Bracelet

Popularized by tennis player Chris Evert in the 1970s, this elegant bracelet features a continuous row of diamonds, making it a versatile piece that complements any outfit.

The Piaget Cuff Bracelet

Piaget, originally a watchmaker, began crafting exquisite gold jewelry in 1961. The stackable gold bangles, inspired by Mediterranean hues, offer a touch of sunny warmth.

The Harry Winston Cluster Earrings

Renowned for handling some of the world’s most famous diamonds, Harry Winston’s cluster earrings, with their dazzling pear and marquise-cut diamonds, continue to be a symbol of glamour.

The Cartier Love Bracelet

Created in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo, the Cartier Love bracelet is an iconic piece symbolizing eternal love. Its unique design, secured with tiny screws, has made it a beloved classic.

 

Investing in these pieces ensures you’ll have timeless, elegant additions to your jewelry collection that will continue to bring joy for years to come.

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