Restaurant Review
TOP Taste
The one landmark that’s etched in everyone’s heart is Paragon. Everyone has the delicacy story to share that they could not help but enjoy there, from the famous biryanis to the classic fish and mango curry. So a major restaurant of 75 years has finally decided to open a branch at Kochi, and we cannot resist the doors to open and lead us to a culinary heritage.
The one landmark that’s etched in everyone’s heart is Paragon. Everyone has the delicacy story to share that they could not help but enjoy there, from the famous biryanis to the classic fish and mango curry. So a major restaurant of 75years has finally decided to open a branch at Kochi, and we cannot resist the doors to open and lead us to a culinary heritage.
Back to Roots
He believes that food isn’t something that must be enjoyed but has an intertwined history of love and effort. Time travelling to the past, Executive Chef, Roy Pothen of Paragon takes us on a culinary ride.
We’re looking forward to the new Paragon, what’s new?
Our new branch will be offering the timeless Malabar food and miscellaneous cuisine Arabic, Chinese and Continental.
You’ve traveled a lot, stirred your way to Kerala, any reason?
I have enjoyed the continental cuisine, but there’s always something about our Kerala food that stays close to my heart. A distinct moment of mine was when I attended an ethnic food festival at Malabar and I knew my passion for ethnic food.
What’s an attribute of your lifestyle that has reflected in your cooking?
I enjoy farming, nurturing ingredients has influenced my style of cooking. For example in my blog, Taste undefined (royjpothen.blogspot.), I have shared health tips and recipes for Carambola (vairapulli), jackfruit, water apple (jambakka), kachilu (assorted yam.) I remember once instead of serving potato crisps, I prepared thin fried slices of jack-fruit seeds.
What’s something that the generation is missing out in your arena of traditional cooking?
They are missing out the original taste of some meals and unaware of the old traditional food. For example, onion paste is a recent garnish in the authentic beef curry. Onion was never a part of the recipe only shallots. This alteration occurred with the influence of North Indian cooking. But it’s always good to know another way it was once prepared, both style must make its mark.
A few things that you would like to bring back in the tradition?
During my days in Scotland, I realized the way they gave meat the proper taste without overpowering it, especially in the case of steak. There should be a correct measurement of the spices so the taste of meat is also balanced. That’s why I prepared black pepper spiced rack lamb with tomato and coconut flavored sauce as the signature dish.
Trying to back a heritage how’s the journey of travelling to the past?
I have visited a few Illams and old Christian homes to recover recipes that have been lost. Currently, I have set up a meeting with Kamat to recover the secret of Nambadoori dishes and may be sometime next month planning to do an exploratory study on traditional Syrian Catholic food. Also in my agenda, I have a desire to visit Kumaly, the dams of Idukki and find out the particular plant specimen that’s used for wrapping fish pollichatu.
Despite going old school, is there anything in the Kerala cuisine palette that has to be reinvented?
I would love to bring a few changes to the desserts. For example central Kerala Pachoru is eaten during the saadhyas could go through a lot of reinvention. It could be put in particular moulds and different brick varieties and enhanced with different embellishments using traditional ingredients. Vattyappam can be put in a different angle apart from just being a tea snack and it can be made into desserts. Also I have experimented with a few ingredients instead of using chocolate sauces refined sugar water.
An incident that motivated you to pursue the originality of a meal…
When I worked at Taj Malabar, I worked with Chef Shanmugam and learned how important it is to add genuine ingredients. He travelled to China and he taught me the authentic Chinese cuisine without ‘Indianizing’ and that’s what inspired me to stay true to meal without diluting the taste and not altering concepts.
.Is there anything that is still overviewed while experimenting with food?
The use of crucial ingredients and the presentation of the food, a biryani can be presented with a mould and garnished items on the side, the classic plate serve, or finally the chatti biryani style. This sets a different mood.
A few things to make the dining experience better…
There’s never a code for enjoying a meal .Always select a good appetizer and never mix palettes.
Quickies
One dish you can never beat your mum to
Beef Curry
The quickest and easiest appetizer…
Anchovy fish fry
A dish that does not deserve it’s hype
Chicken Balmoral
A twist to a famous dish…
Gooseberry to fish curry
Timeless dish
Mango broulee
Weirdest ingredient in a dessert
Salt
Restaurant Review
A Mishmash of Flavors- Farrago House
What happens when an Engineer, a doctor to-be, a BBA graduate and a Chef plans something together? So, when Arjun, Mishal, Akshay and Suneesh got together, it resulted in a restaurant. Farrago House may look like just another ordinary eatery at Athani Centre in Thrissur, but the food that comes out of their kitchen is a must try.
When asked about how they decided the name Farrago, Akshay, one of the owners said “Farrago means a mixture of things. Similarly, we serve a mixture of all kinds of food over here”, and yes from Chicken Pidi and Meen Mulakitathu to Burgers and Skewers they serve all varieties of food.
They have a large open kitchen with 7 chefs mixing together ingredients, combining them and bringing out steaming hot tasty food to the customers.
They started this restaurant on July 1st of this year, and in this short period of time they have a very large number of customer base in the city. Their pricing of food is on a lighter side. Hence college students, families etc. can devour tasty, high quality food in an affordable price range.
When asked about their special dishes, they said that Pothichoru and Dum Biriyani have a separate fan base in the area. A large number of these dishes get sold on a daily basis. Similarly, their different variants of Burgers are a must try. Also, by next month they are planning to introduce Fusion Food to their customers and the main dish is the flavorsome “Elaneer Chicken”. Even though everyone is stuck at home and can’t dine out, the restaurant plans to deliver tasty mouthwatering food to your doorsteps.
Their parking space is something that should be pointed out. For many people parking is a huge headache while going out. Either you have to wait to get some space or you should park somewhere far away and then walk to the cafes or restaurants. But here, Farrago house has a spacious car parking facility where they can accommodate a large number of customers.
Due to covid restrictions and curfews, Farrago house does not have a dine-in facility. Currently takeaway and delivery is only available. Once it opens, you can visit and enjoy the fine dine space and the cool ambience of the restaurant.
Follow them on Instagram for delicious posts- https://instagram.com/farragohouse
Words by: Malavika Venugopalan
Photo Credits- Arfan Abdulazeez https://www.instagram.com/the.procaffeinator/
Restaurant Review
It’s their Turning Point
Life of so many took a turning point due to the stressful yet to end COVID disaster, many industries got stand still shattering life and dreams of many. The great Socrates had said, “The secret of change is to focus all of your energy not on fighting the old, but on building the new”. Arnold and Rohit have done the same, despite all these struggling pandemic days, they have come up with Turning point- the newest food joint in town.
People of Kochi, especially the once active party goers may recognize Arnold Heiden as that young DJ who have made people groove to his music in almost every popular dance floor in Kochi, but being the clubs and pubs shut, Arnold took a break from the turntable to the billing table at Turning Point, were you can see him with that warm smile welcoming his customers. Arnold left his decent 9 to 5 desk job for this and joining him was his friend Rohit who was an engineer in Saudi Arabia. Both of them left their jobs and ventured into the food business.
Arnold and Rohit had been planning for a food truck concept but due to the strict laws the authorities were not giving the license for a live kitchen on a vehicle and then they settled with a concept of dine in food joint.
Turning point has already become the fav among the youngsters in Kochi with the beautiful ambiance and the mouthwatering food which they offer. Due to the Covid regulations currently dining is not allowed and only take home is available, but once the restrictions are withdrawn turning point will surely become one of those buzzing hangout food joints in the City. They are even planning to add Pizza’s, pancakes, live desserts etc. into the menu once the dine in restrictions are withdrawn
You can have a wide range of menus from Croquettes, fries, Wings, Wraps, Rolls, Burgers and even veg and nonveg bowls for those who are looking for a heavy dining. The price is on a lighter side with respect to the premium quality food which they serve. For the hot tea lovers, Chembil Chaya within the premises is a live tea counter which will serve you a variety of tea they have. Turning point will be soon available over the online delivery portals and you can have their food served at your doors, but we highly recommend to have a visit to Turning Point once the covid scenario is over.
Turning Point/Chembil Chaya is in PT Jacob Road, opposite to Our Lady’s Church, Thoppumpady
Words by: Vivek Kadavath
Restaurant Review
A Twist Of Taste At Crowne Plaza Kochi’s Trilogi Restaurant
FWD Life had the pleasure of savouring the delightful additions to the restaurant’s popular menu last week
Text credit: Charishma Thankappan
Raising the standards of fine dining in Kochi, Trilogi Restauarant at Crowne Plaza Kochi launched their revamped menu this past weekend. Adding to their existing menu which features tastes par excellence, the latest dishes promise to elevate the gastronomic experience.
The entire hotel wore a festive look, being ornately decorated and the staff dressed in traditional Kerala attire of cream and gold saree and mundu and kurta. Lilting aromas of fresh jasmine flowers adorning the entrance way to the restaurant set up the warm welcome for the guests on this night of the new menu launch.
Trilogi wore a romantic look, with each of the tables being decked up with a candle placed creatively on a stub of banana stem. There was no surprise that the place was packed for the night.
The night began with a welcome drink called Ilaneer Paaniyam, a most imaginative concoction of ilaneer, ilaneer malai, and coconut milk blended with a dash of mint, ginger, and sugar. Served in a tall glass with a rose petal, this was a most refreshing and unique taste that won the heart right away.
In streamed the platter of starters next, comprising Chemmeen Urulakizhangu Dosa, Kanthari Chicken, Aatirachi Nei Pathal in the non-vegetarian options and Chuvannulli Inji Vada, Vazhapoo Kadala Parippu Cutlet for the vegetarians. Bursting with flavours, each of them were mouthwatering, but the highlight was the Chemmeen Urulakizhangu Dosa – an artistic genius of the chefs. This was washed down with Seafood Thengapaal Soup, a best-seller in the existing menu. Pineapple Rasam was the delightful alternative for vegetarians.
The main course looked overwhelming with a plethora of appealing names. And sure enough, the arrival of the delicacies, preceded by their heavenly aroma was intoxicating. Opting for the non-vegetarian menu, we received Syrian Beef Koorka Roast, Mutton Kurumulagu Chaaps, Kuttanadan Tharaavu Varutharacha Curry, to be devoured with fresh, fluffy appams and Fish Biriyani. Its vegetarian substitutes composed of Vellary Uppumanga Curry, Vazhapoo Vanpayar Kachiyathu, Koon Koorkka Peera Pattichathu, with Idiyappam, Appam, or Chef’s Special Paratha.
Dessert time was another brilliant showcasing of Executive Chef Kalesh and his team’s imaginative prowess. Vazhapoovu Ela Paayasam, Bebinca, and Ilaneer Pudding brought the night to a flourishing end. Yet again, the Ilaneer Pudding proved to be an ingenious creation and left the biggest impact upon us.
The biggest highlight of the revamped menu at Trilogi is the sheer innovativeness and artistry of the dishes. Got to give it to Chef Kalesh and his team for the efforts that they put in for creating a truly one-of-a-kind spread that has not been seen before. The mastery of the team lies in the deft use of the indigenous Kerala ingredients to make stunningly exotic tastes that would be novel for even Malayalis. As Chef Kalesh says, “We put in months of research into each dish. There is a story behind every dish, and we have derived them from authentic Kerala recipes used by natives from different parts of the state.”
The restaurant’s name Trilogi, as chef explains, is deduced from the three regions of Kerala – Malabar, Cochin, and Travancore. The restaurant features exclusive dishes from each of the regions, sticking to the authentic recipes. “Our chefs are sent to the houses of natives to learn the indigenous recipes and they come back and recreate in our kitchens. We mostly stick to the original recipes as it is, but sometimes add our own twist to it.” This twist is perhaps what elevates the dishes at Trilogi to heavenly heights, bringing diners back again and again to savour the unforgettable tastes.
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