Fashion
“Power Dressing” over the years
FWD caught up with Neena Haridas, Editor in Chief, L’Officiel, on her thoughts about the concept of “power dressing” and the changing global trends in the regard
Words by Fathima Abdul Kader Photographs from Various Sources
While doing a previous story for this magazine (The Big Four in Fashion, Issue 01 Vol 06), Neena Haridas sparked the thought of “power dressing” for women in current times. We caught up with the renowned fashion editor again to delve in to her thoughts on the same and how the fashion world is disassociating a woman’s attire with her power and capabilities, as it always should have. As the British Prime Minister Theresa May summed it up – “I’m a woman, I like clothes. One of the challenges for women in politics, in business, in all areas of working life, is to be ourselves, and to prove you can be clever and like clothes at the same time.”
Dissociating style and intellect
Neena went on to say that times have changed and fashion is a reflection of the path that the world is moving in. Women are being accepted for what they are capable of and not what they wear. Even if one dresses in Chanel power suits or Armani jackets, if they are not truly capable, it does not make any difference. A woman who is elegantly put together and has intellect is powerful, whether she wears loud colors, skirts, long dresses, quirky accessories and ballet flats.
The runways of today
The world of fashion is an ever increasing commentary on the current social scenario and often walks on the path the world is moving towards, even before it is realized. Today, the concept of power dressing itself is being discarded and feminine silhouettes are being embraced by all major designers that previously created clean cut power suits. Neena observed how shades such as yellow and pink are dominating the palettes of designers and tulip skirts, cinched waists were ruling the runway for the spring/summer 2017 shows all over the world. Karl Lagerfeld, the renowned designer, is known showcasing his political and cultural musings in his designs and he had put forth a collection for Chanel that featured tweed and boucle skirt suits in a myriad of pastel colors for spring/ summer 2017.
In our conversation with Neena about female attire and the changes it has gone through, a number of popular trends and movements were discussed. A trend that has reached the zenith of popularity is white sneakers, which women would not have been comfortable wearing a few years ago. But there is no reason for women to look taller than men in order to feel powerful. They prefer their wellbeing and comfort over images and let their work speak rather than their attire. There are many women who have stopped wearing brassieres for health reasons and they own their identity and bodies on their own terms. The fact that women do not become, or need to become men by dressing in a masculine way has become socially accepted and that is a true triumph of the latest collections seen on the runway.
Fashion
The Year of Statement Hat
When Anya Taylor-Joy stepped out at this year’s Cannes Film Festival in Jacquemus’ Le Chapeau Bomba, a delightfully oversized raffia hat it was clear that this accessory had become the season’s ultimate statement piece. The fall 2024 runways echoed this sentiment, with Chanel and Prada showcasing hats as the new must-have. Think of Sarah Jessica Parker’s oversized Maryam Keyhani creation, worn on the set of And Just Like That… earlier this year, or Margaret Qualley donning Chanel’s nautical style at Cannes. These hats are for the main characters who command attention, making a bold statement long before you arrive.
Altuzarra’s fall 2024 collection featured boxy headpieces on some models, each designed to evoke a specific character. “It was about finding joy in wearing a complete look, fully embodying a character,” explains designer Joseph Altuzarra. Interestingly, this was the label’s first foray into hats beyond casual knit and woven styles. ‘We didn’t plan to sell them,’ Altuzarra admits, ‘but they ended up being a hit.
Similarly, milliner Gigi Burris O’Hara has experienced a surge in demand. Although she launched her brand, Gigi Burris, in 2012, she only opened her first store late last year. “During leaner times, when people become more selective with their spending, they seek joy in thoughtful purchases,” she explains.
After years of embracing a more casual style, we’re now gravitating toward all things expressive. Maximalist content creator Sara Camposarcone has been embracing pieces from small brands like Potion23, renowned for its whimsical, witchy hats. “I feel like I can now wear bolder headpieces that complement my extravagant outfits,” Camposarcone shares. “Since discovering vintage fashion, I’ve developed a passion for finding great vintage pillbox hats or a 1920s fascinator.”
Fashion
The Iconic Bags and Their Names
Handbags are more than just functional accessories; they are statements of style and symbols of status. Over the years, several handbags have achieved iconic status, becoming synonymous with luxury and timeless fashion. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic bags and the stories behind their names.
Hermès Birkin
Origin: The Birkin bag was born from a chance encounter between actress and singer Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1981. Birkin mentioned her struggle to find a perfect weekend bag, leading Dumas to design a bag tailored to her needs.
Icon Status: The Birkin is known for its exclusivity, craftsmanship, and high price tag. It has become a symbol of wealth and luxury, often with a waiting list of years.
Chanel 2.55
Origin: Created by Coco Chanel in February 1955 (hence the name), the Chanel 2.55 was revolutionary for its time, introducing the concept of a shoulder bag, freeing women from the inconvenience of clutch bags.
Icon Status: With its quilted leather, chain strap, and distinctive CC lock (added in the 1980s by Karl Lagerfeld), the 2.55 remains a timeless piece, beloved by fashionistas worldwide.
Louis Vuitton Speedy
Origin: Introduced in the 1930s, the Speedy was designed as a smaller version of the Louis Vuitton Keepall. It became particularly popular in the 1960s when Audrey Hepburn requested a smaller version, leading to the creation of the Speedy 25.
Icon Status: Known for its classic monogram canvas and practicality, the Speedy is a versatile bag that has remained a staple in the fashion world for decades.
Dior Lady Dior
Origin: First presented in 1994, the Lady Dior bag was initially known as “Chouchou.” It gained its iconic status when Princess Diana was photographed with it in 1995, leading to its renaming in her honor.
Icon Status: The bag’s signature cannage stitching and dangling Dior charms make it instantly recognizable. It’s a favorite among celebrities and royalty, symbolizing elegance and sophistication.
Gucci Jackie
Origin: Originally called the Fifties Constance, this bag was renamed the Jackie after Jackie Kennedy was frequently photographed carrying it in the 1960s.
Icon Status: The Jackie bag’s hobo shape and piston strap closure make it a timeless piece. It has seen numerous revivals and remains a classic in the Gucci lineup.
Prada Galleria
Origin: Named after the historic Prada boutique in Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the Galleria bag epitomizes the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship.
Icon Status: With its clean lines, structured shape, and Saffiano leather, the Galleria bag is a symbol of modern elegance and understated luxury.
Fendi Baguette
Origin: Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997, the Baguette was named for its shape, resembling the French baguette loaf, and designed to be carried under the arm.
Icon Status: Popularized by its appearance on the TV show “Sex and the City,” the Baguette became a must-have accessory, famous for its countless variations in colors and materials.
Balenciaga City
Origin: Introduced in the early 2000s, the Balenciaga City bag, also known as the Motorcycle bag, was designed by Nicolas Ghesquière. Its casual yet chic design quickly gained a cult following.
Icon Status: Known for its slouchy silhouette, distinctive hardware, and tassels, the City bag became an icon of the 2000s and continues to be a beloved piece.
These iconic bags have transcended fashion trends, becoming enduring symbols of style, craftsmanship, and luxury. Each bag tells a unique story, adding to its allure and making it a coveted piece for fashion enthusiasts around the world. Investing in one of these iconic bags is not just about owning a stylish accessory but also a piece of fashion history.
Cover Story
Sonam Kapoor Ahuja’s Traditional Ladakh’s Heritage Attire
As Anant Ambani’s pre-wedding festivities come to an end, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja chose to dress in Ladakh traditional garb. The event featured a number of topics, with India’s rich past being the focus yesterday night. Sonam Kapoor Ahuja emphasized this by dressing in Namza Couture, which was established in 2016 by Padma Yangchan and Jigmet Disket and is renowned for its commitment to Ladakhi fabrics.
The Mogos, a gown-like item with a shimmering zari border and pistachio green brocade, was part of Sonam’s ensemble. She wore a rani-pink shawl called a “Bok,” which is usually made from silk or goat skin and is worn to keep warm by the locals. This outfit was made of silk by Benaras artisans, and it had intricate phoenix embroidery, which stands for knowledge and vigor. It also had a crane image, which stands for prosperity and peace.
Her jewelry selections also honored custom; she wore a neckpiece set with diamonds and an emerald stone in the center. She accessorized this with striking statement rings and copper handcuffs, all tastefully matched with pearl earrings. She chose metallic juttis to complete her look, and she carried a bespoke purse by re-ceremonial.
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