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Manjulakshmi Bharathan Treads The Highway To Fashion

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Manjulakshmi Bharathan
Images from Gills Manjulaksh

The designer with her label Gills Manjulakshmi became the first Malayali designer to showcase her collections at New York Fashion Week this February

Text credit: Charishma Thankappan

From God’s Own Country to the fashion capital of the world, Manjulakshmi Bharathan’s journey has been one of determination, hard work, and success. Earlier this year, she became the first South Indian fashion designer to display her works at the prestigious New York Fashion Week. In an exclusive interview with FWD Life, Manjulakshmi tells us all about her journey and her dreams.

1

How was the experience, showcasing your designs at New York Fashion Week?

New York Fashion Week was a totally different experience. It’s a city that welcomes fashion, where designers work together and the whole city was in a festive mood. Fashion is a part of everyday living there. It’s a most prestigious event where we get to meet international celebrities, high profile professionals, and established and emerging artists. They all work under one roof without any conflict.

Tell us about the collection that you exhibited.

I exhibited 40 outfits including three of my collections from both womens and menswear, each were themed differently and according to the styles and fabrics used. There were three categories: ‘I love the Roses Red’, which comprised hand worked and embroidered 3D roses, colours of reds, kohl blacks and butter creamed organza silks. All were composed in vintage frames and romantic cuts focusing more on evening wear. Corset cuts were the main highlights. The second group was about ‘Sun To Moon, All The Things I Love’. This collection was more of elegant women’s wear with bridal and haute couture dresses which featured colours from milky whites to deep navy blues coordinating the flow of time from sunrise to the night sky. The third section was called ‘My birds are humming your name’. This collection focused on the despair of waiting for love, the changing seasons, how colours changed from Spring to Autumn and how the humming birds played the music of love. Each dress was cultivated in pastel tones embellished with golden humming birds in its different moods. There was also menswear which was composed of themes ranging from stars in the sky to the deep underwater life of fish and turtles with metallic tunes and hand worked details, use of linen and taffetas and use of cuts from Middle Eastern menswear.

Do you work around sustainable fashion? How do you incorporate it into your designs?

Yes I have been in love with everything natural from my first collection and due to that pursued passion I have been continuing my research studies on organic fabrics including linen, silk, and wool. I had even started an awareness program ‘Think Pink Wear Green’, by taking a small promise from everyone with their thumb impression to wear anything natural once a week. Dedicated to natural fabrics, label Gills Manjulakshmi has started a new line named AADIMA BY GILLS MANJULAKSHMI.

Do you include any elements from God’s Own Country in your designs?

Yes, every collection of mine has been connected to my roots; the use of silks and handlooms have been a never ceasing part in my design collections.

What are your inspirations for your work?

Love in its every form has always been the inspiration for my work and textiles, and its aura has always inspired me. Apart from that, histories and places are my other pathways. I do have a collection of vintage fabrics and textiles collected during my travels which I have treasured.

Tell us about your mother’s role in your work.

My mother instilled in me the love for textiles and its drapes. From childhood, she used to design for me dresses with different cuts from the trends of the time. She is a great designer herself and has a special eye for textiles, its flow and colour mixes, and my passion grew more into designing and making and styling when we started designing costumes for the dances choreographed thematically. She used to study the character and substitute colors, fabrics and styling for it.

What do you aim for as a designer?

I would like to bring new perspectives into the use of textiles, its forms, and how people could associate fashion easily with their personality and everyday life. I would like to see the future of fashion applied with sustainability and value for its existence. Fashion has been used as a tool to express ourselves and it has been the easiest way to convey messages to the public. I love vintage and reviving fashion and textiles that have proved as brands themselves. I would like to establish a fashion which is timeless and can be passed on for another generation and develop a fashion styled community.

How difficult is it for an Indian designer from India to showcase at international fashion weeks?

I would not use the word difficult but there are a lot of criteria to go through when a brand is selected for showcasing at the international fashion week. The whole fashion scenario is different from buyers to users, the styles have to be researched and adapted to its demand to meet the competition.

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Fashion

The Year of Statement Hat

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When Anya Taylor-Joy stepped out at this year’s Cannes Film Festival in Jacquemus’ Le Chapeau Bomba, a delightfully oversized raffia hat it was clear that this accessory had become the season’s ultimate statement piece. The fall 2024 runways echoed this sentiment, with Chanel and Prada showcasing hats as the new must-have. Think of Sarah Jessica Parker’s oversized Maryam Keyhani creation, worn on the set of And Just Like That… earlier this year, or Margaret Qualley donning Chanel’s nautical style at Cannes. These hats are for the main characters who command attention, making a bold statement long before you arrive.

Altuzarra’s fall 2024 collection featured boxy headpieces on some models, each designed to evoke a specific character. “It was about finding joy in wearing a complete look, fully embodying a character,” explains designer Joseph Altuzarra. Interestingly, this was the label’s first foray into hats beyond casual knit and woven styles. ‘We didn’t plan to sell them,’ Altuzarra admits, ‘but they ended up being a hit.

Similarly, milliner Gigi Burris O’Hara has experienced a surge in demand. Although she launched her brand, Gigi Burris, in 2012, she only opened her first store late last year. “During leaner times, when people become more selective with their spending, they seek joy in thoughtful purchases,” she explains.

After years of embracing a more casual style, we’re now gravitating toward all things expressive. Maximalist content creator Sara Camposarcone has been embracing pieces from small brands like Potion23, renowned for its whimsical, witchy hats. “I feel like I can now wear bolder headpieces that complement my extravagant outfits,” Camposarcone shares. “Since discovering vintage fashion, I’ve developed a passion for finding great vintage pillbox hats or a 1920s fascinator.”

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Fashion

The Iconic Bags and Their Names

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Handbags are more than just functional accessories; they are statements of style and symbols of status. Over the years, several handbags have achieved iconic status, becoming synonymous with luxury and timeless fashion. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic bags and the stories behind their names.

Hermès Birkin

Origin: The Birkin bag was born from a chance encounter between actress and singer Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1981. Birkin mentioned her struggle to find a perfect weekend bag, leading Dumas to design a bag tailored to her needs.

Icon Status: The Birkin is known for its exclusivity, craftsmanship, and high price tag. It has become a symbol of wealth and luxury, often with a waiting list of years.

Chanel 2.55

Origin: Created by Coco Chanel in February 1955 (hence the name), the Chanel 2.55 was revolutionary for its time, introducing the concept of a shoulder bag, freeing women from the inconvenience of clutch bags.

Icon Status: With its quilted leather, chain strap, and distinctive CC lock (added in the 1980s by Karl Lagerfeld), the 2.55 remains a timeless piece, beloved by fashionistas worldwide.

Louis Vuitton Speedy

Origin: Introduced in the 1930s, the Speedy was designed as a smaller version of the Louis Vuitton Keepall. It became particularly popular in the 1960s when Audrey Hepburn requested a smaller version, leading to the creation of the Speedy 25.

Icon Status: Known for its classic monogram canvas and practicality, the Speedy is a versatile bag that has remained a staple in the fashion world for decades.

Dior Lady Dior

Origin: First presented in 1994, the Lady Dior bag was initially known as “Chouchou.” It gained its iconic status when Princess Diana was photographed with it in 1995, leading to its renaming in her honor.

Icon Status: The bag’s signature cannage stitching and dangling Dior charms make it instantly recognizable. It’s a favorite among celebrities and royalty, symbolizing elegance and sophistication.

Gucci Jackie

Origin: Originally called the Fifties Constance, this bag was renamed the Jackie after Jackie Kennedy was frequently photographed carrying it in the 1960s.

Icon Status: The Jackie bag’s hobo shape and piston strap closure make it a timeless piece. It has seen numerous revivals and remains a classic in the Gucci lineup.

Prada Galleria

Origin: Named after the historic Prada boutique in Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the Galleria bag epitomizes the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship.

Icon Status: With its clean lines, structured shape, and Saffiano leather, the Galleria bag is a symbol of modern elegance and understated luxury.

Fendi Baguette

Origin: Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997, the Baguette was named for its shape, resembling the French baguette loaf, and designed to be carried under the arm.

Icon Status: Popularized by its appearance on the TV show “Sex and the City,” the Baguette became a must-have accessory, famous for its countless variations in colors and materials.

Balenciaga City

Origin: Introduced in the early 2000s, the Balenciaga City bag, also known as the Motorcycle bag, was designed by Nicolas Ghesquière. Its casual yet chic design quickly gained a cult following.

Icon Status: Known for its slouchy silhouette, distinctive hardware, and tassels, the City bag became an icon of the 2000s and continues to be a beloved piece.

These iconic bags have transcended fashion trends, becoming enduring symbols of style, craftsmanship, and luxury. Each bag tells a unique story, adding to its allure and making it a coveted piece for fashion enthusiasts around the world. Investing in one of these iconic bags is not just about owning a stylish accessory but also a piece of fashion history.

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Cover Story

Sonam Kapoor Ahuja’s Traditional Ladakh’s Heritage Attire

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As Anant Ambani’s pre-wedding festivities come to an end, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja chose to dress in Ladakh traditional garb. The event featured a number of topics, with India’s rich past being the focus yesterday night. Sonam Kapoor Ahuja emphasized this by dressing in Namza Couture, which was established in 2016 by Padma Yangchan and Jigmet Disket and is renowned for its commitment to Ladakhi fabrics.

 The Mogos, a gown-like item with a shimmering zari border and pistachio green brocade, was part of Sonam’s ensemble. She wore a rani-pink shawl called a “Bok,” which is usually made from silk or goat skin and is worn to keep warm by the locals. This outfit was made of silk by Benaras artisans, and it had intricate phoenix embroidery, which stands for knowledge and vigor. It also had a crane image, which stands for prosperity and peace.

Her jewelry selections also honored custom; she wore a neckpiece set with diamonds and an emerald stone in the center. She accessorized this with striking statement rings and copper handcuffs, all tastefully matched with pearl earrings. She chose metallic juttis to complete her look, and she carried a bespoke purse by re-ceremonial.

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