Travel

On a heritage trail in Chettinad

Published

6 years ago

November 30, 2017

FWDmedia

Visalam, a remnant of the cultural legacy of the Chettiars, beckons

Words by Maya Lalchandani Photographs from Visalam Heritage Hotel and Maya Lalchandani

There are several fascinating reasons to travel to the south of India. Steeped in history and rich culture, Tamil Nadu, in particular, offers a wide array of temples, homes, and traditions. The climate is of course, conducive to travel from October to March and I was lucky to get an opportunity right then.

As I understood the history of Chettinad, which is famous for its mansions, I learned that the Natukottai Chettiars are also known as the Nagarathars. The Chettiars were the original residents of Chettinad, who used the ancient methods of banking. The men usually travelled in large boats to Burma and other places to find their fortune in trade. They only returned to meet their families and to build and fill their mansions with beautiful Burma teak furniture, inlay work, Murano chandeliers, Belgian glass, etc. They were a very prosperous community. Chettinad is a cluster of 72 villages in the Sivaganga district of Southern Tamil Nadu and Visalam is a heritage boutique hotel managed by CGH Earth properties in Kanadugathan. Getting there by road was an enjoyable experience as the roads run parallel and clean all along the highway. Sighting the old mansion, one feels a sort of curiosity even though the façade is quite nondescript.

The rustic interiors

A storehouse of culture

The story behind the 70 year old heritage mansion speaks of the endearing love that a father had for his daughter who never got to live there as she passed away at a tender age. The father was KVAL Ramanathan Chettiar and his eldest daughter was Visalakshmi. She in turn passed it on to her daughter Valli. What was built as a traditional mansion had to be restored into a building that could be divided into 15 liveable rooms, without actually touching the interiors. It still somewhat retains the same ambience and spirit from the old times. CGH has indeed captured the essence of an old family home, keeping all the old structures intact. The sepia toned pictures of the family and the artefacts such as old urns, large salt jars, and narrow staircases preserve the mystery.

On a heritage trail in Chettinad images (1)

Intact with history

We were greeted warmly by the general manager, Febin Thomas and others in traditional Tamilian attire (Veshties) and offered the official welcome drink. After a chat, we were presented a rather large box containing what seemed like a fairly giant key. It felt like being offered the keys to the kingdom. Sadly, it was only the key to our room but mystical no doubt. As we moved through the large halls, we actually experienced a palpable presence of the past ushering us into the guestrooms. We noticed that the rooms were very spacious with high ceilings, gleaming floors, beautiful windows, and doors characterising comfort and luxury. The period furniture was made from Burma teak and the famous Aathangudy tiles were seen adorning the walls and the floors. An alluring kolam invited us into our abode. The pearly pristine walls raised a question in our minds as we enquired about their origin. And rightly enough, the story goes that it was the done thing in those times, as all the plastering of the walls and pillars were made from a formula of eggshells, lime, palm jaggery, and seashells ground together to make a base. Later, the walls were polished with egg white. It is a craft long gone. Everything seemed local, like the towels, the bed runners, and even the uniforms of people seemed to be sourced from the age old hand weavers of Chettinad. Four-poster beds and carved doors gave a sense of the forgotten times. The outdoor garden boasted of an old haathgadi with hens and cocks freely roaming alongside scampering squirrels and fluttering dragonflies. Visalam is a totally eco-conscious hotel that encourages rainwater harvesting and I noticed that even their drinking water is purified through reverse osmosis and finally through ultra violet treatment. They manage their waste efficiently. No television and scant Wifi discourage any kind of connect to the real world. There was complete calm in the time of chaos. The lounge houses antiques and a radio that look like they had barely survived the ravages of time and age, but fit right into the mood.

Preservation of tradition

One of the wonderful old ways of tasting the local cuisine is in the actual kitchen (sapadushala) where it can be tasted as soon as the food comes off the flame. But Visalam also offers a Terrace Grill, a Garden Café, and a Poolside Café. The swimming pool offers an indulgence that can be accessed anytime. Cycles are generously offered for the adventurous to scramble in and out of narrow lanes in the village. Guests are encouraged to venture into Kandukathan to discover the history and architecture in the form of the traditional Chettiar homes in Chettinad. Though many of them lie in abandoned ruin and squalor, at one time, they were very much known for their grandeur and elegance. People from all over the world still come to check out the 100 mansions. A bullock cart ride is arranged from the hotel to go through the bumpy roads of the village – indeed a unique experience. So off we went to sample the sights and sounds of the nearby village. We ventured into old shops filled choc-a-bloc with relics, old furniture, glassware, enamel crusted kitchenware, and lots of doors and handles, and vestiges evicted from the old mansions. The local women seemed colourful, robust, and on par with the workingmen. The market place was abuzz with activities that have not changed over the years. The crafts, the jewellery, sculptures, and the woodwork are still available. Kanadukathan was well known for its temples. One such is the ancient 1,800 year old Palliyar Patti Temple close by. As we watched the women grind the rice and jaggery for the prasadam, we also sighted rows and rows of colourful mud horses lined up on all the periphery of the temple.

On a heritage trail in Chettinad images (2)

According to historical tales, people donated them when they achieved something in their lives. They appeased the gods by requesting favours and if they were fulfilled, they spent money on mud statues. The sizes of the horses matched the success ratio. Of course, only women over 50 years of age were allowed in to greet the deity. All traditional Chola styled temples had their own water body called Oorani (tank). Among the activities that one must not miss are a visit to the weaving mills and the wonderful art of tile making at Athanagudy. It is a village situated only 10kms from Visalam and has since then been famous for its handmade tiles. Visalam was built by skilled artisans, tile-makers, weavers, and carpenters; so it is very necessary to trace them while we can. After all, they breathed life again into a 100 year old structure.

The Chettinad cuisine

As we encounter each and every side of Chettinad, Visalam brings to light the most famous of its attributes – that of Chettinad cuisine. It consists of a variety of spices and most of their concoctions are made from freshly ground masalas. Because of the climate and environment, lots of sun-dried meats and salted vegetables are used and are usually eaten with rice and rice-based preparations like idlis, dosas, idiappams, and adais. Though Chettiars were essentially vegetarians, Visalam put their best foot forward by including nonvegetarian food. We had by now understood that Chettinad food depended largely on the aroma of its spices. Freshly ground masalas were ever so imperative, as we found anasipoo (star anise), kalpasi (lichen), miligai (chilli), sombu (fennel), pattai (cinnamon), etc., in the spice market. Being in Kandugathan, and in the wonderful world of Visalam in Chettinad, gives one a whole new perspective of life in a once prosperous village, a veritable museum today, preserved in its original character. Hospitality and heritage steeped in tradition and culture provides the traveller an insight into a local holiday experience. And as the sun sets by the sparkling poolside, and the paniyarams are served for the evening tiffin, one feels that the colours that once dotted a previous rainbow can well be found in the new horizon through the stories that fill a new day in Chettinad.

Related Topics:Chettiars Chettinad heritage

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Travel

Essential Summer Travel Bag Must-Haves

Published

1 month ago

March 28, 2024

Reshma Vivekanandan

As the summer sun beckons, it’s time to dust off your travel bags and embark on exciting adventures. Whether you’re jetting off to exotic destinations or exploring hidden gems closer to home, packing the right essentials can make all the difference in ensuring a hassle-free and enjoyable journey. Join me as we explore the must-have items to pack in your travel bags for a memorable summer getaway.

Sun Protection Essentials:

Beat the heat and safeguard your skin from harmful UV rays with sun protection essentials. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen with a high SPF, sunglasses to shield your eyes, and a wide-brimmed hat for added protection. Additionally, lip balm with SPF and aloe vera gel can provide relief from sunburns and keep your lips hydrated.

Lightweight Clothing Options:

Embrace the spirit of summer with lightweight and breathable clothing options that keep you cool and comfortable on your travels. Pack versatile pieces such as cotton shirts, shorts, flowy dresses, and swimsuits for beach outings. Opt for wrinkle-resistant fabrics to minimize the need for ironing and save space in your luggage.

Hydration Essentials:

Stay hydrated on the go by packing a reusable water bottle in your travel bag. Fill it up whenever you have access to clean drinking water to quench your thirst and reduce plastic waste. Consider packing electrolyte packets or tablets to replenish lost minerals during outdoor activities or hot weather.

Travel-Friendly Toiletries:

Travel toiletries in clear plastic, quart-sized bag on white background

Streamline your toiletry bag with travel-sized essentials that meet TSA regulations and save space in your luggage. Pack items such as shampoo, conditioner, body wash, toothpaste, and moisturizer in leak-proof containers. Don’t forget to include a compact travel towel and wet wipes for quick refreshment on the go.

Tech Gadgets and Accessories:

Capture unforgettable moments and stay connected with essential tech gadgets and accessories. Pack your smartphone, camera, or GoPro along with chargers, power banks, and adapters for international travel. Consider investing in a lightweight and portable Bluetooth speaker for impromptu beach parties or outdoor picnics.

First Aid Kit and Medications:

Home first aid kit on a blue background. The elements of the first aid kit are laid out on the table.

Be prepared for minor emergencies and health-related issues by packing a well-stocked first aid kit in your travel bag. Include items such as adhesive bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, antihistamines, and motion sickness tablets. Don’t forget to pack any prescription medications you may need during your trip.

With these essential items packed in your travel bag, you’re ready to embark on a summer adventure filled with unforgettable experiences and cherished memories. From sun protection essentials to tech gadgets and first aid supplies, being prepared for every situation ensures a smooth and enjoyable journey wherever your travels may take you. So, grab your bags, soak up the sun, and let the summer adventures begin!

Travel

Exploring Nature’s Splendor: The Best Waterfalls to Visit in Kerala

Published

1 month ago

March 25, 2024

Reshma Vivekanandan

Nestled amidst lush greenery and pristine landscapes, Kerala, often referred to as “God’s Own Country,” is home to some of the most breathtaking waterfalls in India. From cascading torrents of water to serene natural pools, these majestic falls offer a refreshing escape into the heart of nature’s splendor. Join me as we journey through the best waterfalls to visit in Kerala, each offering its own unique charm and allure.

Athirappilly Waterfalls:

Located in the Thrissur district, Athirappilly Waterfalls is often dubbed as the “Niagara of India” for its impressive cascade and grandeur. Surrounded by dense tropical forests, the waterfall plunges from a height of approximately 80 feet, creating a mesmerizing spectacle of mist and spray. Visitors can enjoy scenic viewpoints, nature trails, and boat rides to witness the beauty of Athirappilly up close.

Meenmutty Waterfalls:

Tucked away in the Wayanad district, Meenmutty Waterfalls is a hidden gem nestled amidst the Western Ghats. With a three-tiered cascade plunging from a height of over 800 feet, Meenmutty is one of the tallest waterfalls in Kerala. Accessible via a trek through dense forests and rocky terrain, the journey to Meenmutty is as thrilling as the destination itself, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

Vazhachal Waterfalls:

Just a stone’s throw away from Athirappilly, Vazhachal Waterfalls offers another enchanting spectacle of cascading waters amidst lush greenery. Fed by the Chalakudy River, Vazhachal descends gracefully over rocky terrain, creating a picturesque setting for nature enthusiasts and photographers alike. Visitors can explore nearby attractions such as the Vazhachal Forest Gardens and take a dip in the cool, refreshing waters.

Palaruvi Waterfalls:

The name Palaruvi means “stream of milk” in Malayalam, and when you visit the falls, you’ll understand why. To get there, you’ll need to hike through the forest. There’s a tiny spot where you can swim and take in the cascade. You can combine a visit to the Shenduruny Wildlife Sanctuary with a tour to this idyllic setting. It is regarded as one of Kerala’s top waterfalls and is sure to add magic to your vacation.

Chethalayam Waterfalls:

One of Kerala’s most well-known waterfalls, particularly for hikers and adventure seekers, is Chethalayam. To reach this picturesque waterfall from Kidangand, you would need to hike for around 4 km. Trekkers still favour it even though it dries out in the summer.

Soochipara Waterfalls:

Situated near the town of Kalpetta in Wayanad, Soochipara Waterfalls, also known as Sentinel Rock Waterfalls, is renowned for its natural beauty and serene surroundings. Cascading down from a height of around 200 feet, the waterfall is nestled amidst dense forests and rocky cliffs, making it an ideal spot for trekking, rappelling, and swimming in the natural rock pools below.

Thusharagiri Waterfalls:

Tucked away in the Kozhikode district, Thusharagiri Waterfalls is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered by adventurous travelers. Comprising a series of cascades formed by the Chalippuzha River, Thusharagiri offers a serene retreat amidst verdant landscapes and lush greenery. Visitors can trek through the forested trails, indulge in bamboo rafting, and savor the tranquility of this off-the-beaten-path destination.

With their majestic beauty and serene surroundings, the waterfalls of Kerala offer a captivating escape into nature’s embrace. Whether you’re seeking adventure, tranquility, or simply a scenic retreat, these cascading wonders promise an unforgettable experience that will leave you enchanted and rejuvenated. So, pack your bags, lace up your boots, and embark on a journey to explore the best waterfalls Kerala has to offer.

Cover Story

Explore the Hidden Gems: Must-Visit Places on Lakshadweep

Published

1 month ago

March 14, 2024

Reshma Vivekanandan

Lakshadweep, meaning “a hundred thousand islands” in Sanskrit, is a mesmerizing archipelago nestled in the Arabian Sea. With its pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and vibrant marine life, Lakshadweep is a paradise for travelers seeking serenity and natural beauty. Lakshadweep offers activities for all types of visitors, including nature lovers, water sports enthusiasts, and beach bums. These are the top activities to do in Lakshadweep when visiting.

The only ways to get to Lakshadweep are by air or boat. There are frequent flights from Kochi and Bangalore to the single airport, which is located on Agatti Island. Another option is to travel by ferry from Kochi, which takes between 18 to 20 hours. To enter Lakshadweep, visitors must get a special permit, which can be obtained online or through the tourism department of Lakshadweep. When the weather is nice and sunny, from October to March is the ideal time to visit Lakshadweep. Since there aren’t many resorts or guesthouses in Lakshadweep, it’s crucial to reserve your lodging well in advance.

Agatti Island:

Agatti, the gateway to Lakshadweep, welcomes you with its breathtaking beauty. The island boasts stunning coral reefs, making it a haven for snorkelers and divers. Take a stroll along the shimmering white sands or indulge in water sports like kayaking and windsurfing. Don’t miss the opportunity to witness the spectacular sunset painting the sky in hues of orange and pink.

Minicoy Island:

Experience the rich cultural heritage of Lakshadweep on Minicoy Island. The island is renowned for its traditional Maldivian-influenced culture, evident in its architecture, cuisine, and customs. Explore the charming villages adorned with colorful houses and visit the iconic Lighthouse built by the British. Don’t miss the chance to savor authentic Maldivian cuisine and witness captivating cultural performances.

Kadmat Island:

For those craving solitude and tranquility, Kadmat Island is the perfect escape. This serene island is renowned for its untouched beaches fringed with swaying palms. Dive into the azure waters to explore the vibrant marine life teeming with colorful fish and coral formations. Relax under the shade of coconut trees and savor fresh seafood delicacies served by local vendors.

Amini Beach:

If you’re searching for quiet tourist destinations in Lakshadweep, Amini Beach is a great choice. This beach is well-known on Amini Island because of its coral sandstone surface. Adventure sports like as snorkelling, scuba diving, reef walking, and kayaking are available for you to try. Amini Beach is a great place to unwind and spend the day drinking cocktails and soaking up the sun.

Bangaram Island:

Dubbed as the jewel of Lakshadweep, Bangaram Island is a postcard-perfect destination. With its powdery white sands and emerald lagoons, it’s a paradise for beach lovers. Spend your days basking in the sun, snorkeling amidst the coral gardens, or simply unwinding in a hammock under the shade of a palm tree. Indulge in a romantic beach picnic as you watch the stars illuminate the night sky.

Lakshadweep beckons travelers with its pristine beauty, diverse marine life, and warm hospitality. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or cultural immersion, the islands offer a myriad of experiences to cherish. Explore these must-visit places on Lakshadweep and create memories that will last a lifetime.