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On a heritage trail in Chettinad

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On a heritage trail in Chettinad1

Visalam, a remnant of the cultural legacy of the Chettiars, beckons

Words by Maya Lalchandani      Photographs from Visalam Heritage Hotel and Maya Lalchandani

There are several fascinating reasons to travel to the south of India. Steeped in history and rich culture, Tamil Nadu, in particular, offers a wide array of temples, homes, and traditions. The climate is of course, conducive to travel from October to March and I was lucky to get an opportunity right then.

As I understood the history of Chettinad, which is famous for its mansions, I learned that the Natukottai Chettiars are also known as the Nagarathars. The Chettiars were the original residents of Chettinad, who used the ancient methods of banking. The men usually travelled in large boats to Burma and other places to find their fortune in trade. They only returned to meet their families and to build and fill their mansions with beautiful Burma teak furniture, inlay work, Murano chandeliers, Belgian glass, etc. They were a very prosperous community. Chettinad is a cluster of 72 villages in the Sivaganga district of Southern Tamil Nadu and Visalam is a heritage boutique hotel managed by CGH Earth properties in Kanadugathan. Getting there by road was an enjoyable experience as the roads run parallel and clean all along the highway. Sighting the old mansion, one feels a sort of curiosity even though the façade is quite nondescript.

The rustic interiors

A storehouse of culture

The story behind the 70 year old heritage mansion speaks of the endearing love that a father had for his daughter who never got to live there as she passed away at a tender age. The father was KVAL Ramanathan Chettiar and his eldest daughter was Visalakshmi. She in turn passed it on to her daughter Valli. What was built as a traditional mansion had to be restored into a building that could be divided into 15 liveable rooms, without actually touching the interiors. It still somewhat retains the same ambience and spirit from the old times. CGH has indeed captured the essence of an old family home, keeping all the old structures intact. The sepia toned pictures of the family and the artefacts such as old urns, large salt jars, and narrow staircases preserve the mystery.

On a heritage trail in Chettinad images (1)

Intact with history

We were greeted warmly by the general manager, Febin Thomas and others in traditional Tamilian attire (Veshties) and offered the official welcome drink. After a chat, we were presented a rather large box containing what seemed like a fairly giant key. It felt like being offered the keys to the kingdom. Sadly, it was only the key to our room but mystical no doubt. As we moved through the large halls, we actually experienced a palpable presence of the past ushering us into the guestrooms. We noticed that the rooms were very spacious with high ceilings, gleaming floors, beautiful windows, and doors characterising comfort and luxury. The period furniture was made from Burma teak and the famous Aathangudy tiles were seen adorning the walls and the floors. An alluring kolam invited us into our abode. The pearly pristine walls raised a question in our minds as we enquired about their origin. And rightly enough, the story goes that it was the done thing in those times, as all the plastering of the walls and pillars were made from a formula of eggshells, lime, palm jaggery, and seashells ground together to make a base. Later, the walls were polished with egg white. It is a craft long gone. Everything seemed local, like the towels, the bed runners, and even the uniforms of people seemed to be sourced from the age old hand weavers of Chettinad. Four-poster beds and carved doors gave a sense of the forgotten times. The outdoor garden boasted of an old haathgadi with hens and cocks freely roaming alongside scampering squirrels and fluttering dragonflies. Visalam is a totally eco-conscious hotel that encourages rainwater harvesting and I noticed that even their drinking water is purified through reverse osmosis and finally through ultra violet treatment. They manage their waste efficiently. No television and scant Wifi discourage any kind of connect to the real world. There was complete calm in the time of chaos. The lounge houses antiques and a radio that look like they had barely survived the ravages of time and age, but fit right into the mood.

Preservation of tradition

One of the wonderful old ways of tasting the local cuisine is in the actual kitchen (sapadushala) where it can be tasted as soon as the food comes off the flame. But Visalam also offers a Terrace Grill, a Garden Café, and a Poolside Café. The swimming pool offers an indulgence that can be accessed anytime. Cycles are generously offered for the adventurous to scramble in and out of narrow lanes in the village. Guests are encouraged to venture into Kandukathan to discover the history and architecture in the form of the traditional Chettiar homes in Chettinad. Though many of them lie in abandoned ruin and squalor, at one time, they were very much known for their grandeur and elegance. People from all over the world still come to check out the 100 mansions. A bullock cart ride is arranged from the hotel to go through the bumpy roads of the village – indeed a unique experience. So off we went to sample the sights and sounds of the nearby village. We ventured into old shops filled choc-a-bloc with relics, old furniture, glassware, enamel crusted kitchenware, and lots of doors and handles, and vestiges evicted from the old mansions. The local women seemed colourful, robust, and on par with the workingmen. The market place was abuzz with activities that have not changed over the years. The crafts, the jewellery, sculptures, and the woodwork are still available. Kanadukathan was well known for its temples. One such is the ancient 1,800 year old Palliyar Patti Temple close by. As we watched the women grind the rice and jaggery for the prasadam, we also sighted rows and rows of colourful mud horses lined up on all the periphery of the temple.

On a heritage trail in Chettinad images (2)

According to historical tales, people donated them when they achieved something in their lives. They appeased the gods by requesting favours and if they were fulfilled, they spent money on mud statues. The sizes of the horses matched the success ratio. Of course, only women over 50 years of age were allowed in to greet the deity. All traditional Chola styled temples had their own water body called Oorani (tank). Among the activities that one must not miss are a visit to the weaving mills and the wonderful art of tile making at Athanagudy. It is a village situated only 10kms from Visalam and has since then been famous for its handmade tiles. Visalam was built by skilled artisans, tile-makers, weavers, and carpenters; so it is very necessary to trace them while we can. After all, they breathed life again into a 100 year old structure.

The Chettinad cuisine

As we encounter each and every side of Chettinad, Visalam brings to light the most famous of its attributes – that of Chettinad cuisine. It consists of a variety of spices and most of their concoctions are made from freshly ground masalas. Because of the climate and environment, lots of sun-dried meats and salted vegetables are used and are usually eaten with rice and rice-based preparations like idlis, dosas, idiappams, and adais. Though Chettiars were essentially vegetarians, Visalam put their best foot forward by including nonvegetarian food. We had by now understood that Chettinad food depended largely on the aroma of its spices. Freshly ground masalas were ever so imperative, as we found anasipoo (star anise), kalpasi (lichen), miligai (chilli), sombu (fennel), pattai (cinnamon), etc., in the spice market. Being in Kandugathan, and in the wonderful world of Visalam in Chettinad, gives one a whole new perspective of life in a once prosperous village, a veritable museum today, preserved in its original character. Hospitality and heritage steeped in tradition and culture provides the traveller an insight into a local holiday experience. And as the sun sets by the sparkling poolside, and the paniyarams are served for the evening tiffin, one feels that the colours that once dotted a previous rainbow can well be found in the new horizon through the stories that fill a new day in Chettinad.

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Travel Wellness: Staying Healthy and Fit While Exploring

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Travelling is an enriching experience that broadens horizons and creates lasting memories. However, maintaining your health and fitness while on the road can be a challenge. Whether you’re navigating busy city streets, lounging on a beach, or embarking on an adventure, staying well and fit is crucial for enjoying your travels to the fullest. Here are some practical tips to help you stay healthy and active while exploring new destinations.

Plan Your Travel Meals

Eating healthy while traveling can be challenging, but with a little planning, it’s entirely achievable. Research local cuisine before your trip and seek out restaurants or markets that offer nutritious options. Opt for meals that include plenty of fruits, vegetables, lean proteins, and whole grains. If you’re staying in a place with a kitchen, consider preparing some of your meals to maintain control over ingredients and portions.

Stay Hydrated

Travel can easily disrupt your hydration routine. Always carry a reusable water bottle and refill it regularly. Drinking enough water helps with digestion, energy levels, and overall well-being. If you’re traveling to a place with different water quality, consider bringing a portable water purifier or sticking to bottled water.

Incorporate Physical Activity

Finding time to exercise while traveling can be tough, but it’s essential for maintaining your fitness and energy levels. Here are a few ways to stay active:

  • Use Hotel Gyms: Many hotels offer fitness centers. Utilize these facilities to keep up with your workout routine.
  • Explore on Foot: Walking or biking around your destination not only provides exercise but also allows you to experience the city’s sights more intimately.
  • Outdoor Activities: Take advantage of local outdoor activities such as hiking, swimming, or even a beach workout.

Maintain a Sleep Schedule

Traveling at first class. Flight with comfort. Pretty young woman sleeping in airplane.

Adjusting to new time zones can disrupt your sleep pattern, which affects overall health. Try to maintain a regular sleep schedule by setting consistent bedtimes and wake-up times. Creating a relaxing bedtime routine, such as reading or listening to calming music, can also help you wind down and improve sleep quality.

Practice Mindfulness and Stress Management

Travel can be exciting but also stressful. Incorporate mindfulness practices such as meditation, deep breathing exercises, or yoga to manage stress and maintain mental well-being. Many travel destinations offer wellness retreats or classes where you can participate in mindfulness activities.

Pack a Travel Health Kit

Prepare a travel health kit with essentials like vitamins, medications, and first-aid supplies. Include items such as hand sanitizer, travel-sized disinfectant wipes, and any prescription medications you may need. Having these on hand can help prevent illness and manage minor health issues.

Stay Active During Travel

Long flights or car rides can lead to stiffness and discomfort. Take breaks to stretch or walk around every few hours. Simple exercises like seated leg lifts, neck stretches, and shoulder rolls can help improve circulation and reduce muscle tension.

Adopt Local Wellness Practices

Explore and embrace local wellness practices and traditions. Whether it’s a traditional Thai massage, Japanese hot springs, or Ayurvedic treatments in India, incorporating local wellness practices can enhance your overall travel experience and contribute to your well-being.

 Avoid Overindulgence

While it’s tempting to indulge in local delicacies, moderation is key. Balance indulgent meals with healthier options and be mindful of portion sizes. Enjoying treats in moderation allows you to savor local flavors without compromising your health goals.

Stay Social and Connected

Social interactions and maintaining connections with loved ones can boost mental health and overall happiness. Make time to connect with fellow travelers, locals, or family and friends back home to keep your spirits high and your travel experience fulfilling.

By integrating these wellness tips into your travel routine, you can ensure a healthier and more enjoyable journey. Staying active, eating well, and managing stress will help you feel your best and make the most of your travel experiences. Safe travels and happy exploring!

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Real House of the Dragon Location You Want to Visit

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Returning to Westeros for the battle between the Blacks and Greens in “House of the Dragon” season two. A civil war within the House of Targaryen over who should inherit the Iron Throne is the subject of the television drama series, which is based on George R. R. Martin’s Fire & Blood and takes place two centuries before Game of Thrones. Along with other important members of the season one ensemble, Olivia Cooke as Alicent Hightower, Emma D’Arcy as Rhaenyra Targaryen, and Matt Smith as Daemon Targaryen are returning for the presently running second season.

We can’t wait to explore all of the amazing filming locations that this series has brought us. Considering how rich the universe is, it makes sense. Rather than depending solely on computer-generated scenery and soundstages, several of the actual filming locales contribute to the world of Westeros’ distinctive atmosphere.

Here, a guide to House of the Dragon filming locations you can visit:

Castleton, Derbyshire, England

In the first season of the show, Castleton, a village in high-peaked Derbyshire with one of the oldest lead mines, was transformed into The Vale of Arryn. Those who watch Game of Thrones would recall this as the location of House Arryn and the Eyrie, a stronghold where adversaries can be driven to their deaths via a moon portal. The region, which was once inhabited by Celtic people, is well-known for its traditional English hamlets and the limestone valley of Cave Dale, which is located inside the national park.

St. Michael’s Mount in Mount’s Bay, Cornwall, England

St. Michael’s Mount is a rocky tidal island with a 12th-century mediaeval church and a small, intimate village connected to the island of Marazion by a causeway that visitors can cross on foot during low tide. Blackwater Bay, a sizable body of water at Kings Landing’s edge, is home to House Velaryon, the fictional Driftmark of House of the Dragon, which is housed in the island’s main fortress. A prior appearance of Driftmark occurred in the Battle of the Blackwater in Game of Thrones.

La Calahorra, Granada, Spain

Reimagined as Pentos, one of the cities bordering the seas of Westeros, the imaginary continent at the heart of the world of Game of Thrones, is the municipality La Calahorra in eastern Granada. At the base of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, on the solitary hill in the region, lies a mediaeval fortress known as Castillo de La Calahorra, one of the region’s most iconic monuments. The exterior of the castle, which serves as the seat of House Targaryen on House of the Dragon, defies the rules of Gothic design, making it one of the first buildings in Spain to be influenced by the Renaissance between 1509 and 1512. Its exquisite split-level interior features a centre courtyard, four corner towers, and marble.

Cáceres, Extremadura, Spain

The province of Cáceres, in western Spain, is a veritable time capsule. Ancient structures that date back hundreds of years nevertheless look substantially the same, displaying a variety of architectural influences, such as Roman, Moorish, and Gothic. Several locations in the region were used to film the King’s Landing sequences, including the walled city of Plasencia in season one, Trujillo in season two, and the capital city of Cáceres in both seasons.

Bourne Wood in Farnham, England

Bourne Wood was the location of one of the largest fight scenes from season two of House of the Dragon. Large clearings in the forest make it perfect for expansive combat scenes and large film crews, while the absence of newer, more contemporary buildings or power lines gives the location a timeless sense. According to London Cult’s documentation, the forest was outfitted with a tent camp and certain areas were covered in artificial snow. The woodland is about an hour’s drive away, making the setting very handy for films like House of the Dragon that are headquartered out of the Warner Bros. Leavesden studio.

Gaztelugatxe, Basque Country, Spain

An island in Biscay called Gaztelugatxe has a hermitage that goes back to the tenth century. The iconic stone bridge was used for filming House of the Dragon. In season seven, the islet served as a stand-in for Dragonstone during filming for Game of Thrones. the location of the initial season’s encounter between Rhaenyra and her dragon on Dragonstone Bridge.

 

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Essential Summer Travel Bag Must-Haves

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As the summer sun beckons, it’s time to dust off your travel bags and embark on exciting adventures. Whether you’re jetting off to exotic destinations or exploring hidden gems closer to home, packing the right essentials can make all the difference in ensuring a hassle-free and enjoyable journey. Join me as we explore the must-have items to pack in your travel bags for a memorable summer getaway.

Sun Protection Essentials:

Beat the heat and safeguard your skin from harmful UV rays with sun protection essentials. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen with a high SPF, sunglasses to shield your eyes, and a wide-brimmed hat for added protection. Additionally, lip balm with SPF and aloe vera gel can provide relief from sunburns and keep your lips hydrated.

Lightweight Clothing Options:

Embrace the spirit of summer with lightweight and breathable clothing options that keep you cool and comfortable on your travels. Pack versatile pieces such as cotton shirts, shorts, flowy dresses, and swimsuits for beach outings. Opt for wrinkle-resistant fabrics to minimize the need for ironing and save space in your luggage.

Hydration Essentials:

Stay hydrated on the go by packing a reusable water bottle in your travel bag. Fill it up whenever you have access to clean drinking water to quench your thirst and reduce plastic waste. Consider packing electrolyte packets or tablets to replenish lost minerals during outdoor activities or hot weather.

Travel-Friendly Toiletries:

Travel toiletries in clear plastic, quart-sized bag on white background

Streamline your toiletry bag with travel-sized essentials that meet TSA regulations and save space in your luggage. Pack items such as shampoo, conditioner, body wash, toothpaste, and moisturizer in leak-proof containers. Don’t forget to include a compact travel towel and wet wipes for quick refreshment on the go.

Tech Gadgets and Accessories:

Capture unforgettable moments and stay connected with essential tech gadgets and accessories. Pack your smartphone, camera, or GoPro along with chargers, power banks, and adapters for international travel. Consider investing in a lightweight and portable Bluetooth speaker for impromptu beach parties or outdoor picnics.

First Aid Kit and Medications:

Home first aid kit on a blue background. The elements of the first aid kit are laid out on the table.

Be prepared for minor emergencies and health-related issues by packing a well-stocked first aid kit in your travel bag. Include items such as adhesive bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, antihistamines, and motion sickness tablets. Don’t forget to pack any prescription medications you may need during your trip.

With these essential items packed in your travel bag, you’re ready to embark on a summer adventure filled with unforgettable experiences and cherished memories. From sun protection essentials to tech gadgets and first aid supplies, being prepared for every situation ensures a smooth and enjoyable journey wherever your travels may take you. So, grab your bags, soak up the sun, and let the summer adventures begin!

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