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CRAFTED OPULENCE

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Founder of ‘Bespoke by Ahalya’ and ‘Kanakavalli Kanjeevaram’, Ahalya S, shares the tales of craft, provenance and identity that sets her brands apart.

Words by Fathima Abdul Kader    Photographs by Various Sources

An excited murmur rose from the women in the hall in The Center Hotel as soon as I stepped into the room. About 30 people were at the hall held spellbound by threads of silken gold threads woven into perfection. The warmly lit room put on display the range of resplendent sarees and the glass cases were showing off unique pieces of jewelry. I didn’t have to look hard to find the woman behind this beautiful enterprise, Ahalya S Kanakavalli was the one clad in a Grey Kanjeevaram Saree with golden thread weaving through the length of the saree and across and a border with delicate mango motifs and an off white blouse. She had the look of someone who was let in on the secret of the image one can give out when they are sari-clad.

Weaves of History

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Ahalya studied Psychology, but what began as her attempt to design jewelry for herself lead to the creation of her jewelry line “Bespoke By Ahalya ” and that venture further paved way to the creation of Kanakavalli, the bespoke Kanjeevaram collection. About thirty to forty percent of the designs in Kanakavalli are exclusive to brand and they work with the master weavers of Kanjeevaram to deliver one of its kind designs and experience when shopping for the traditional apparel.

The Saree Connection

A self confessed saree lover, she has worn sarees every single day for the last ten to thirteen years. Her relationship with wearing saree goes beyond imparting a particular look; she has experienced the comfort of wearing Kanjeevaram. She added “Since the fabric is organic and Kanjeevaram is a strong silk, it gets very breathing after a few initial wears, and there won’t be any chance of it getting crushed as one goes through their day. While most people to wear sarees occasionally or even once for a function, they never get to experience the comfort in wearing a saree.” When asked about those that she admire, Ahalya said she sees beauty everywhere, and that it is not just one person or one look but in the entirety and how certain people put themselves together.

Heritage Discovery

The brand outlet Kingsley at Spurtank Road in Chennai attempts to impart a true sense of luxury in all aspects. Set in a reappointed family home from the imperial era- Kingsley houses the brands Ahalya, Kanakavalli and an exclusive gift shop that contains items curated by Ahalya S. Currently the brand has two stores in Chennai and one in Coimbatore. Every Kanakavalli store is designed in such a way that it exudes the feeling of an abode apt for the Queen of Silks. The tastefully appointed store gives a complete experience of the Kanjeevaram. From simple designs to rich resplendent patterns, it is made a point to make Kanjeevaram that can suit any occasion available at the store. They also arranged an exhibition in Coimbatore as well as in Delhi’s Aga Khan Hall in Delhi.

When asked about the response to the exhibition, Ahalya said “Since sarees and expensive jewelry are heritage items, most people have a brand or a store that they have trusted their whole life, and it is not an easy attempt to change their mind. But for a first attempt the turn out to exhibition was very well received.” The brand also has made a great online presence with Ahalya’s online portal www.parisera.com which sells sarees, stoles and odhnas, and accessories. The clientele especially on the website are relatively young and the response makes Ahalya assured of the fact that more people are embracing the beauty of handloom and of heritage products in general and the way people consider heritage products have.

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Art

Navratri 2024: Celebrating the Nine Colours and Their Significance

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Navratri, the festival that spans nine nights, is one of the most auspicious and widely celebrated festivals in India. Dedicated to the worship of Goddess Durga in her nine forms, each day of Navratri holds special significance, marked by a distinct color that carries deep spiritual and cultural meaning. As we prepare for Navratri 2024, let’s explore the nine colors associated with each day, their significance, and how they inspire devotion, positivity, and harmony.

Day 1: Yellow

On Thursday, embrace the uplifting energy of yellow as you celebrate Navratri with optimism and joy. This warm and cheerful color symbolizes happiness and radiates positivity, keeping you in high spirits throughout the day.

Day 2: Green

On Friday, wear green, a color that represents nature, growth, and harmony. It evokes a sense of peace and serenity, while also symbolizing new beginnings. Let the vibrant energy of green invite tranquility and the blessings of the Goddess into your life.

Day 3: Grey

Saturday calls for the subtle sophistication of grey. This balanced color keeps you grounded and calm, symbolizing composure and understated elegance. It’s perfect for those who want to participate in Navratri with grace while making a refined style statement.

Day 4: Orange

On Sunday, adorn yourself in the vibrant hue of orange. This color embodies warmth, exuberance, and positivity. Wearing orange during Navratri invokes an upbeat energy, bringing vitality and a lively spirit to your celebrations.

Day 5: White

Start your Monday with the purity and serenity of white. Associated with innocence and spiritual clarity, this color invites inner peace and helps you connect with the divine blessings of the Goddess, offering a sense of security and calm.

Day 6: Red

On Tuesday, red takes center stage, symbolizing passion, love, and strength. As one of the most auspicious colors, red is often offered to the Goddess in the form of a Chunri. Wearing red fills you with energy, vigor, and the vibrant spirit of Navratri.

Day 7: Royal Blue

Wednesday’s color is royal blue, representing elegance, richness, and tranquility. This deep, vivid shade of blue exudes confidence and sophistication, making it an ideal choice for those who want to celebrate Navratri with style and grace.

Day 8: Pink

On Thursday, don the charming hue of pink, a symbol of universal love, affection, and harmony. Pink is a color that adds a soft touch of warmth and approachability, making it perfect for creating a loving and joyful atmosphere during the festivities.

Day 9: Purple

On the final day of Navratri, purple takes the spotlight. Associated with luxury, nobility, and grandeur, purple invites opulence into your life. Wearing this regal color while worshipping Navdurga bestows blessings of prosperity and richness, making it the perfect way to end your Navratri celebrations.

 

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Luxury

Cartier’s New High Jewellery Collection is a Love For The Wild

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In 2021, the American Museum of Natural History in New York presented Beautiful Creatures, an exhibition showcasing some of the most eccentric jewellery designs of the past century. One standout piece was the iconic crocodile necklace of Mexican actress María Félix, a loyal Cartier patron. Félix, renowned for her bold sense of style, famously strolled into Cartier’s Paris store in 1975 with her pet crocodile, requesting a necklace in its likeness. Cartier delivered, crafting two intertwined crocodiles encrusted with over a thousand emeralds and yellow diamonds. For Félix, crocodiles symbolized freedom, an embodiment of the spirit she associated with Mexico’s Golden Age of cinema.

Fast forward to today, and Félix’s wildest dreams seem to have come to life at Cartier’s latest high jewellery collection, Nature Sauvage, previewed at the historic Kursalon Hübner gallery in Vienna. Among the star pieces is the Koaga necklace, a masterful creation where a zebra clasps an emerald-cut diamond and a 6.25-carat pear-shaped rubellite in its mouth. The zebra’s form is exquisitely rendered in alternating onyx stripes and pavé diamonds, making the creature feel almost lifelike.

The relationship between animals and jewellery has deep mythological roots, often glorified through rituals and symbolism. In ancient Egypt, scarab beetles were worn as earrings to signify respect for life’s cyclical nature. Meanwhile, in Hellenistic Greece, gods and goddesses took on the forms of winged creatures in adornment. So, what is it about animal-themed jewellery that continues to captivate us? According to Amanda Triossi, a jewellery historian based in Rome, the allure lies in our primal instincts: “Wearing wild animals like panthers or tigers gives one the sense of having conquered them. It’s empowering, as if you inherit the animal’s strength and attributes.”

Cartier captures this essence beautifully in its Amphista necklace. Featuring two intertwined snakes with diamond scales set with emeralds, their heads adorned with kite-shaped diamonds, the necklace echoes ancient Chinese philosophy’s yin-yang balance. The pièce de résistance? Nine octagonal Colombian emeralds, weighing a total of 14.72 carats.

Triossi also notes that many historical heroes are often depicted draped in the skins of animals they’ve vanquished, a symbol of triumph. Today, jewellery transforms that symbol into something precious and eternal—animal skins reimagined in imperishable materials.

Later that evening, at a celebration held at Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches Museum, the largest in Austria, the enchantment of Cartier’s collection was heightened. The museum’s octagonal domes featured paintings of animals dancing with angels, setting the stage for a magical night. Guests were greeted by masterpieces such as Rembrandt’s Self-Portrait and Caravaggio’s Madonna of the Rosary, alongside Cartier page boys in their signature red hats. The evening’s soundtrack, a seamless blend of Bach and Kygo, was curated by DJ Gillian Sagansky, lending a modern twist to the classical ambiance.

The following day brought another cultural adventure—a visit to Otto Wagner’s Villa, a stunning summer palace designed by the famed architect. The paintings adorning the villa’s walls depicted animals in various forms—some caught in purgatory, others wandering the biblical bardo, with alligators restlessly emerging from swampy landscapes.

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Luxury

Indian Craftsmanship Meets Italian Savoir Faire : Rahul Mishra x Tod’s

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Quiet luxury was expected to dominate for a while, with many predicting that the return of bold, extravagant fashion would take its time. However, maximalism seems to be making a swift comeback, especially in the realm of designer collaborations. Hot on the heels of the vibrant, print-heavy H&M x Anamika Khanna collection, another limited-edition line has arrived, celebrating opulent luxury: Rahul Mishra x Tod’s.

As part of Tod’s T-Factory project, which features exclusive collaborations with creative innovators, this marks Indian couturier Rahul Mishra’s debut in the international accessories space.

Mishra is a true ambassador of Indian design. Along with his wife Divya Mishra, he leads his eponymous label, which has brought the essence of India to the global stage in remarkable ways. A regular at Paris Fashion Week and the first Indian designer to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Week, his creations have adorned celebrities like Zendaya and Mark Zuckerberg, and have graced magazine covers in South Korea, China, and Europe. With such a path-defining legacy, it’s no surprise that Mishra and his visionary label were Tod’s natural choice for their first-ever Indian collaboration.

Mishra describes this collaboration as a beautiful fusion of “Italian craftsmanship serving as the canvas for Indian vision.” Tod’s iconic Gommino loafers and mules, along with the Di Bag and T Timeless shoulder bag, have been reimagined with intricate resham embroidery, crystals, and sequins—all meticulously hand-embroidered at Mishra’s atelier in Noida. “It was a technically challenging process that took time to perfect. I can confidently say these are some of the finest bags and shoes you’ll ever witness, in terms of craftsmanship and longevity. Such pieces are forever,” Mishra proudly shares.

Crafted entirely between India and Italy, the limited-edition pieces from this collection are a true love letter to the artisanal heritage of both nations. “There’s a beauty in the teamwork here,” Mishra explains. “We received raw materials from Italy and worked on integrating our embroideries seamlessly into their leather. The pieces were then sent back to Tod’s, where they transformed them into stunning, three-dimensional products. In that sense, it’s been a genuine collaboration between Italy and India.”

Mishra firmly believes that the future of global design will be shaped by a global Indian aesthetic. “Just as French, Italian, British, and Japanese designs are now seen as universal,” he explains. This collaboration marks a significant step in advancing that narrative. “When you push the boundaries of ‘handmade in India’ to be respected at the pinnacle of luxury, everything else will naturally follow,” he emphasizes.

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