Fashion
A runway timeline of Britain’s most theatrical accessory designer Anya Hindmarch
With her love for theatricality and reimagining familiar motifs, FWD takes a look at Anya Hindmarch’s runways at the last eight seasons of London Fashion Week
Words: Fathima Abdul Kader Images: Various sources
From flying tea cups to pixelated video arcades to conveyor belts and kaleidoscopes, Anya Hindmarch’s love for dramatic and elaborate runways have become a part of her identity. The British designer was initially inspired by the duffel bags that were popular among fashionable Italian women and started by importing them to England and selling them. Soon, she started designing her own bags and selling them. She was the first accessories designer to have an on schedule show at London Fashion Week. The accessory designer is known for her quirky pop culture influenced designs and draws inspiration from the most unexpected sources. Hindmarch also has Bespoke stores where customers can have their own sketches or handwriting embossed on to accessories and is “about ‘having your name on something, rather than mine.” She works with the production company INCA to create her alternative runways. FWD took a look at the Hindmarch’s spectacular runways over the last eight seasons at London Fashion Week.
Spring/Summer 2014 – Out of this world
At the Spring/Summer 2014 show at London Fashion Week, Hindmarch presented a runway where the flickering stars and huge planets rotated a. The bags were lowered from the ceilings and before anyone could reach out and grab it, they were lifted up and above along with the airborne models performing acrobatics.
Autumn/Winter 2014 – Counter Culture
Hindmarch is known for her larger than life concepts and nothing makes a statement like a collection that evokes memories of bar codes and had models moving down conveyors belts. The designer’s collection Counter Culture was inspired by the supermarket and the show ended with a big dance number reminding one of an adult version of ‘Eliza Rocks’.
Spring/Summer 2015 – Fixation
Keeping up with the tradition of a spectacular runway, Anya Hindmarch’s Spring/Summer 2015 literally moved the audience with a set in which the seating itself was set on revolving floors that gave those in attendance a 360 degree view of the called Fixation. The collection inspired by school girl customization featuring stickers featured models holding balloons.
Autumn/Winter 2015 – The Diversion Collection
For Autumn/Winter 2015, Anya Hindmarch created the collection ‘Diversion’ inspired by the M25 British motorway and traffic. The models marched down the catwalk that had road markings and was overseen by LED speed limit boards. The show came to an ending with the London Gay Men’s Chorus dressed in road workers uniform performing a swelling tune.
Spring/Summer 2016 – Apophenia
Inspired by an exploration of pattern and abstraction, Anya Hindmarch’s Apophenia show was her take on a mirror themed runway. An unusual backdrop to her accessories line, the runway was a puzzle of mirrors, creating kaleidoscopic images whose focal point was her designs which were inspired by the logo of favorite stores such as John Lewis, Boots and more.
Autumn/Winter 2016 – PIX
The autumn winter collection from Anya Hindmarch was inspired by pixelation and color. The collection featured motifs from much loved 80s games such as pacman and space invaders. As for the runway, the attendees arrived to find a backdrop of white back cubes that soon flashed in colors reminiscent of 8-bit games, but to the techno tune of Handel’s Messiah.
Spring/Summer 2017 – Circulus
Inspired by the relationship between geometry and art, Hindmarch designed the collection ‘Circulus’ for Spring Summer 2017. The runway itself was an amphitheater that revealed when the lid was lifted off and moved above to hover above the attendees’ heads. The models emerged from trap doors and ascended up the spiral.
Autumn/Winter 2017- Vetr
A zig zagging runway that emulates triangular peaks set the alpine inspired runway for Anya Hindmarch’s Autumn Winter 2017 collection. Hindmarch’s idea of winter was viewed through nostalgia tinted glasses and the collection and the experience was truly ‘hygge’ invoking which had the central motif of kurbits – a Swedish folk art style.
Fashion
The Year of Statement Hat
When Anya Taylor-Joy stepped out at this year’s Cannes Film Festival in Jacquemus’ Le Chapeau Bomba, a delightfully oversized raffia hat it was clear that this accessory had become the season’s ultimate statement piece. The fall 2024 runways echoed this sentiment, with Chanel and Prada showcasing hats as the new must-have. Think of Sarah Jessica Parker’s oversized Maryam Keyhani creation, worn on the set of And Just Like That… earlier this year, or Margaret Qualley donning Chanel’s nautical style at Cannes. These hats are for the main characters who command attention, making a bold statement long before you arrive.
Altuzarra’s fall 2024 collection featured boxy headpieces on some models, each designed to evoke a specific character. “It was about finding joy in wearing a complete look, fully embodying a character,” explains designer Joseph Altuzarra. Interestingly, this was the label’s first foray into hats beyond casual knit and woven styles. ‘We didn’t plan to sell them,’ Altuzarra admits, ‘but they ended up being a hit.
Similarly, milliner Gigi Burris O’Hara has experienced a surge in demand. Although she launched her brand, Gigi Burris, in 2012, she only opened her first store late last year. “During leaner times, when people become more selective with their spending, they seek joy in thoughtful purchases,” she explains.
After years of embracing a more casual style, we’re now gravitating toward all things expressive. Maximalist content creator Sara Camposarcone has been embracing pieces from small brands like Potion23, renowned for its whimsical, witchy hats. “I feel like I can now wear bolder headpieces that complement my extravagant outfits,” Camposarcone shares. “Since discovering vintage fashion, I’ve developed a passion for finding great vintage pillbox hats or a 1920s fascinator.”
Fashion
The Iconic Bags and Their Names
Handbags are more than just functional accessories; they are statements of style and symbols of status. Over the years, several handbags have achieved iconic status, becoming synonymous with luxury and timeless fashion. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic bags and the stories behind their names.
Hermès Birkin
Origin: The Birkin bag was born from a chance encounter between actress and singer Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1981. Birkin mentioned her struggle to find a perfect weekend bag, leading Dumas to design a bag tailored to her needs.
Icon Status: The Birkin is known for its exclusivity, craftsmanship, and high price tag. It has become a symbol of wealth and luxury, often with a waiting list of years.
Chanel 2.55
Origin: Created by Coco Chanel in February 1955 (hence the name), the Chanel 2.55 was revolutionary for its time, introducing the concept of a shoulder bag, freeing women from the inconvenience of clutch bags.
Icon Status: With its quilted leather, chain strap, and distinctive CC lock (added in the 1980s by Karl Lagerfeld), the 2.55 remains a timeless piece, beloved by fashionistas worldwide.
Louis Vuitton Speedy
Origin: Introduced in the 1930s, the Speedy was designed as a smaller version of the Louis Vuitton Keepall. It became particularly popular in the 1960s when Audrey Hepburn requested a smaller version, leading to the creation of the Speedy 25.
Icon Status: Known for its classic monogram canvas and practicality, the Speedy is a versatile bag that has remained a staple in the fashion world for decades.
Dior Lady Dior
Origin: First presented in 1994, the Lady Dior bag was initially known as “Chouchou.” It gained its iconic status when Princess Diana was photographed with it in 1995, leading to its renaming in her honor.
Icon Status: The bag’s signature cannage stitching and dangling Dior charms make it instantly recognizable. It’s a favorite among celebrities and royalty, symbolizing elegance and sophistication.
Gucci Jackie
Origin: Originally called the Fifties Constance, this bag was renamed the Jackie after Jackie Kennedy was frequently photographed carrying it in the 1960s.
Icon Status: The Jackie bag’s hobo shape and piston strap closure make it a timeless piece. It has seen numerous revivals and remains a classic in the Gucci lineup.
Prada Galleria
Origin: Named after the historic Prada boutique in Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the Galleria bag epitomizes the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship.
Icon Status: With its clean lines, structured shape, and Saffiano leather, the Galleria bag is a symbol of modern elegance and understated luxury.
Fendi Baguette
Origin: Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997, the Baguette was named for its shape, resembling the French baguette loaf, and designed to be carried under the arm.
Icon Status: Popularized by its appearance on the TV show “Sex and the City,” the Baguette became a must-have accessory, famous for its countless variations in colors and materials.
Balenciaga City
Origin: Introduced in the early 2000s, the Balenciaga City bag, also known as the Motorcycle bag, was designed by Nicolas Ghesquière. Its casual yet chic design quickly gained a cult following.
Icon Status: Known for its slouchy silhouette, distinctive hardware, and tassels, the City bag became an icon of the 2000s and continues to be a beloved piece.
These iconic bags have transcended fashion trends, becoming enduring symbols of style, craftsmanship, and luxury. Each bag tells a unique story, adding to its allure and making it a coveted piece for fashion enthusiasts around the world. Investing in one of these iconic bags is not just about owning a stylish accessory but also a piece of fashion history.
Cover Story
Sonam Kapoor Ahuja’s Traditional Ladakh’s Heritage Attire
As Anant Ambani’s pre-wedding festivities come to an end, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja chose to dress in Ladakh traditional garb. The event featured a number of topics, with India’s rich past being the focus yesterday night. Sonam Kapoor Ahuja emphasized this by dressing in Namza Couture, which was established in 2016 by Padma Yangchan and Jigmet Disket and is renowned for its commitment to Ladakhi fabrics.
The Mogos, a gown-like item with a shimmering zari border and pistachio green brocade, was part of Sonam’s ensemble. She wore a rani-pink shawl called a “Bok,” which is usually made from silk or goat skin and is worn to keep warm by the locals. This outfit was made of silk by Benaras artisans, and it had intricate phoenix embroidery, which stands for knowledge and vigor. It also had a crane image, which stands for prosperity and peace.
Her jewelry selections also honored custom; she wore a neckpiece set with diamonds and an emerald stone in the center. She accessorized this with striking statement rings and copper handcuffs, all tastefully matched with pearl earrings. She chose metallic juttis to complete her look, and she carried a bespoke purse by re-ceremonial.
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