Somewhere there is a place called ‘me’ and the observatory to this world, those pretty little eyes, are closed beyond eons many. But, they have always been wideopened for mystic nature. Seldom do they blink with the kiss of a sunbeam, instead embrace glory in its complete essence.

Photographer Diya Johnson clicked each frame with the motive of recreating famous paintings by legendary artists Raja Ravi Varma and Sanjay Soni, seldom did Diya know that eventually the portraits will reap a different identity; one of their own. Fort Kochi setting did complete justice to the beauty of Rajasthani street vendors through harmonious unity.

The sunbeams carve through her light brownish skin, opening a different world of ecstasy which is beautifully captured in Diya’s photo story. The portraits boast something far beyond a life … a tale of a journey that has a gist of ‘everything’. Undoubtedly, she carries a different world within her, far from the artificial realm of smiles and the pain beneath them. Right from the sparkling tiny mirrors on her pallu to the glitter in her anklets, there is a spark that keeps the flame in her alive and ablaze. The long flowing cotton ghagra (skirt) in dazzling colours, highlighted by gold and silver patches, lies on a barren landscape background, which again makes her close to earth. Her bright maroon bindi and the divine kumkum on the forehead holds a world full of promises, which she is deeply fond of. Ultimately, who will deny the fact that she is like music, whose beauty cannot be intruded by any external noise?

Where else do we find the juxtaposition of the rich cultural tradition of India and today’s ignorant world, other than in frames that provide a sneak into cultural history? Hold your breath and delve through each frame for a moment; all you will hear is the silent weep and all you will see is aggressive beauty because some faces can kill all that is dark and spread the goodness from within. ‘Hope’. And the world begins there; the sun rises there and she looks up to
the world that can gift her everything she deserves. Even when she gazes on a far dream, she pertains to traditional rites and rituals in her attire and approach. The zest for life has a different meaning in her eyes.

The backdrop fluctuates with time, but she remains as natural and unceasing as ever, for all those who walked down the past and are on their path to future. Her footprints vary, but the sound of anklets remains the same; her sound varies, but her voice remains the same, and she lives even after a thousand deaths and births. Diya sighed, “ ‘She’ is an icon of all those unseen beauties our eyes fail to see.”

Words by Neethu Parvathy S       Photographs by Diya Johnson      Special Thank’s  Binto, Dil & BC Gallery, Mattancherry

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Sample this: a fresh scoop of dahi vada ice cream sprinkled with some sev; grilled anchovies with coconut puree and sundried pesto; fondant potatoes slow-cooked and stewed in stalk and thyme paired with light snapper goujons. Would you ever imagine seeing these on the menu when you go scouting for street food while on holiday? Here is street food with a twist as from the kitchens of three leading chefs of Kochi who went on a trip down memory lane and brought it back for us on a plate, as curated gourmet dishes.

The Not so Small Natholi

Chef Asif Ali
Executive Chef
Casino Hotel, Kochi
His Pick: Natholi (Anchovies) and Sardines

Natholi (anchovies) and chala (sardines) are staple choices of fish in the coastal haven of Kerala. Smelling pungent, but tasting divine, they are delicacies people relish both both at home, and outside.

These are served on on sheets of paper, and a glass or bottle of toddy or palm wine. This, added with the aesthetic feel of the thatched roof of a toddy shop, and the sea breeze (if located on a beach) is a muchrevelled dining experience in the state. We asked chef Asif to reinterpret his favourite dish. Fine dining is easily misconstrued as something too swanky, but chef Asif believes that the art of balancing taste with health comes with a lot of experimentation while overlooking the dubious notions of being overpriced.

As the saying goes, “natholi oru cheriya meen alla” (natholi is not a small fish), what made it catch your attention?

I have always enjoyed street food which is available in beaches, like fish stalls of Marina Beach in Chennai and the chat stalls of Bombay Chowpatty. In Kochi, I think of quick fried food and what comes to mind immediately is
natholi.

For something that just requires deep frying, what was your signature take on it?

I believe that food is only tasty if healthy. So while trying to reinterpret natholi, I wanted to ensure that none of the omega 3 fatty acids are lost and it’s preserved to the fullest without denaturing it. When fish is deeply fried the nutrients are lost. It is also very unhealthy because it carbonises the masala and the fish.

How would you explain your reinterpretation on natholi?

The biggest challenge was maintaining the crispiness without using the technique of deep frying. Thus, I brought in a contemporary spin by creating a Natholi wafer that’s toppled with sundried pesto and coconut curry leaf pesto. I can enjoy it with one bite and it’s also made to be crisp using a sandwich grill.

What other fish do you experiment with?

Sardines is another common food that’s enjoyed in street food shops. It is best enjoyed when charred. What I did was medium cook the sardine meat by first mincing the fish with the bones, mixing it with green masala (ginger, garlic, shallots and kandari), wrapping it in aluminum foil and then steam it. It can be presented in the form of a kabab.

What would like to say about street food?

Healthy food can also be tasty. I hence try to experiment with street food while also remaining committed to my principle.

The Humble Piping Hot Vadas

Chef Michael Saju
Executive Chef
Holiday Inn, Kochi
His Pick : The Classic ‘Vada’

As many would travel around the world with a suitcase, or camera, chef Michael travels with his beloved pack of cutlery. It is his companion on explorations around streets and lanes, for local street food and so his tales are often infused with trademark ingredients. Reinterpreting a dahi vada ,he brings a dish to the shores of Kerala that has bowled us over.

How did the humble vada entire your life?

During my 12th grade tuition days in Indore , my friends and I would go for leisurely strolls to indulge in street food. There was one stall that sold sumptuous items.My most favourite was the dahi vada (dahi is yoghurt), and loved the way the cook prepared it. The consistency was just right and he always made it according to my taste, and often would be his treat. His son runs the stall now.

From vada to ice-cream?

The greatest joy for a chef is to innovate and present food that has a great visual appeal. When I thought of vada it immediately took me to the dahi vada. I thought of making a smoother version. I whisked the yoghurt until it got a smoother consistency, then I made a scoop out of it and stored it in the freezer.

So what’s the scoop about your treat?

It was an idea that I had in my mind for a while and wanted to experiment. It worked out on the first trial. The general conception is that dahi vada can only be enjoyed when the vada is immersed in a bowl full of yoghurt. I wanted to change this perception. While making the ice cream the trick is to use mild yoghurt, and not too sour. The acidity has to be balanced with tamarind sauce made from fresh tamarind pulp. It should be served at room temperature, and the ideal time is to serve it 30 minutes after removing it from the freezer, so you won’t have a thawed dish. (he slides the spoon through the scoop)

What is the one thing you truly appreciate about street food?

People say that street food is not hygienic. One thing I appreciate about street food is that their ingredients are fresh since they do not have storage facilities like a fridge. I have noticed the pani or water used for the pani puri will be fresh, while dahi is purchased every day, I must say that’s one thing that makes their food immensely tasty.

Which place fascinates you most for its street food culture?

Raised in Madhya Pradesh, I was fascinated by its diversity of culture. When you take a walk down the streets, there are food stalls brimming with all sorts of delicacies.People appreciate and enjoy these different varieties. I grew up with the belief that taste should never be compromised and customised to a particular place or cuisine. The best piece of advice I have received is, ‘you can compromise on your clothes but not on your food’.

Coastal Pride: Fish and Chips

Chef Rajeev Menon
Executive Chef
Crowne Plaza
Kochi
His Pick: Fish & Chips

When chef Rajeev mentioned fish and chips for his innovative recommendation, we imagined a trip to London to enjoy what the British love – good old fish and chips; a perfect accompaniment to the sultry shades of cool weather. Smothered in some salt and soused with vinegar, the quintessential British dish instantly won over his palate. For the eight years he spent in London, and we were thrilled to see his interpretation.

Where did you find the most memorable order of fish and chips?

Croydon Market used to be a interesting place, especially on Sundays. I used to love the fish and chips there; they usually serve it with mushy peas and something local called malt vinegar which helps reduce the grease that is found in the fish. Borough Market, situated right under London’s railway lines and near the King’s Bridge. It is known as the melting pot of global cuisine.

How did fish ‘n chips make it from the street into a room with four walls?

Earlier, fish and chips wasn’t a meal that was very common, rather a dish that was enjoyed in the coastal areas. However, when the railways got built, fish became more accessible inland and could be transported to markets
in and around London. Soon, fish and chips grew popular in the mainland too.

How do you reinterpret the classic fish and chips?

I looked more into the technique used and the customisation of flavour. Instead of mushy peas, I prepared a purée that was fused with some mint. Fries are common; so I prepared it as fondant. In this French technique, the potatoes are slowly cooked in butter and stock and then placed into the oven. Much of the stock evaporates while only a residue remains in a mixture of garlic, thyme and chicken. Separately, the snapper fish was lightly fried as goujons. This was served with blanched tomatoes, for a hint of acidity.

If you had to reinvent the dish, how would you do it?

Fish and chips roll would be interesting; the roll would have a spread of tartar sauce paired with a nice and crisp salad. What is your signature ingredient? For really good fish and chips the secret is the batter; it must be light. My signature ingredient is a pinch of turmeric. The barter looks more golden and the taste is not affected.

What do you love about street food culture?

When it comes to fine dining, things are so complicated, especially with the techniques. Street food is uncomplicated and simple and easily available, that’s a good thing for uncontrallable cravings.

Words, Styling and Conceptualisation by Atheena Wilson              Photographs by Arun Menon

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Anoodha Kunnath
Director, Curiouser

‘Curiouser’ that she is, Anoodha is charmed by Mattencherry’s crescendo of bustling streets and its handsomely quaint streets. Characteristically anexplorer, she fell in tune with a medley of casual and high-street, influences that she picked up from the sprawling souks and malls in Muscat, where she grew up. Across the sea, her journeys to the rural villages of India instilled in her a sense of nonchalant fashion. “A lot of style has been inspired by indigenous fashion, like mismatched blouses,” she notes. Similar to her compositions and frames, she looks into subtlety in her ensembles. Her anime eyes lit up when she reminisces her fashion crush – her Sudanese neighbour who used to sashay on the streets with her cascading kaftans and matching lipsticks. After relocating to Kerala, her trysts with linen and cottons have gone beyond an acquaintance, and she jests about being in a live-in relationship withher palazzos and cotton dresses. What would she never be caught wearing, she quickly quipped, “Those bright orange Om-print shirts!”

SHANI SHAKI
Photographer and Restaurateur,Qissa

Shani is unapologetically fashionable. Seated comfortably in a pair of paisley trousers and a charcoal gray Fedora, he muses, “You can buy fashion, but never style.” When asked what surprises him with style, he picks men’s impeccable street style in Milan and Ranveer Singh’s fashion audacity. He enjoys sitting at an outdoor café and taking the role of a flâneur, observing the parade of high end fashion on the streets. Being a photographer, travelling has become a part of his agenda. Unlike being ensconced in the walls of hotels, travel to him is where he gets to meet people, engage in conversations and explore streets and local haunts while soaking in styles and fashion from
different cultures. To him the streets flaunt its beauty with the way lights fall on it, something truly photographic to him. One of his favourite treasures from one of his trips abroad was, “A vintage bird cage I bought in Budapest.” Fresh off his memory, Budapest is lined with a stunning meta-story for him to re-discover and re- capture.

ANN BENJAMAN
Chocolatier, A’s Chocolate Factory

While stiletto heels are a constant in high-street fashion, Ann is rather comfortable in a pair of her Prada platform shoes; a style making its way back in trend. She loves the fashion culture of sunny Dubai for its myriad pool of trends and style. Yet, something she feels swears by for summers is her undeniable loyalty for cotton.

KIM HASSAN
Couture Designer, Kim India

He adorns matching buttons to his tartan trousers and claims that his blazing orange hair is all natural. Kim remembers, “Once while on a trip to Vietnam, this girl rushed to me and asked if she could take a selfie with me. She had the hair colour as mine. I guess orange is the new black.” If Kim’s luggage is ever misplaced, you wouldn’t need a passport for identification; you just have to look into his suitcase. Classic beige trousers, crisp white and blue shirts, khakis … and pink socks. Kim is a fan of fashion from the streets of Moscow, Russia, where women and men cleverly pair formal with casual, as well as the ‘effortless’ style in the Philippine. He believes that a fine belt is a shortcut to high fashion, as well as a shiny pair of shoes. What’s a fashion jaywalking crime to him? You will never catch him on the streets wearing “floral pants.”

Preeti Nambiar
Chief Consultant & Founder, Banyan Tree

Her street fashion moment? While in Rome on a holiday once, Preeti spotted a woman sashay down a flight of stairs in a pink dress, her dress flounced in the gentle breeze – the Ellie Saab moment. At For Kochi, she whizzed in a dhoti and a Danish milkmaid braid while catching up for a coffee date with us. She looked straight out of a catalogue from the Marathi Theatre Association. Faux statement, but her attire was far from a faux pas. This funky ethnic outfit was an inspiration by readymade dhotis which characters used in plays to swiftly change their attires. Interestingly, this ensemble was tailored at a temple. Tokyo and Milan’s street fashion is eclectic and electric to her. So watch out for her fearless fashion looks – could be the D&G power prints and opulent accessories look or a traditional chattu-mundu to beat the heat.

Tanya Abraham
Art Curator, Kashi Café

Beyond the art galleries, the streets are books with endless narratives that illustrate antiquity, tradition, art and alsostyle. The wanderlust in Tanya relaxes on the beaches of islands far, far away that also love their art and fashion. Like Thailand and Sri Lanka. She is a fan of aesthetic fashion, such as the batik prints available in these nations. Her jewellery is a collection that constitute a rainbow of materials like bone, stones and glass. In her trove is a set of wooden bangles she picked up on a trip to Vietnam. She’s even put a spin to the traditional Keralite kashumala, stringing small coins on a thin chain and giving it a versatile and contemporary look. What she loves most about street fashion is the chance to catch something out of the blue. “I once saw a woman wear a khadi kurta with white straight cut pants, which I found quite interesting. Another time I saw this woman wearing a necklace that had huge crystal chunks interwoven with jute threads. I just had to go up to her and compliment her; which I did.” Now, that’s street art appeal.

Nuthan Manohar
Yoga Specialist, Me Met Me

As Madonna sings ‘strike a pose’, Nuthan can get into any complex matsyendrasannas (spinal twist yoga pose). She laughs it off by saying she doesn’t like clothes with ‘joints.’ Her fashion code is free-spirited, from sarongs to halter necks and a pair of comfortable footwear. She loves ‘sole wandering’ in the flea markets of Seoul and Hong Kong. She picked her favourite sun dressfrom one of those streets. Nuthan loves the Hanuman yoga wear and
cardigan. Always on t he run, from her yoga studio to workshops, she finds the key to comfort dressing in pants – harem to cotton.

Conceptualisation and Words by Atheena Wilson     Photographs by FWD Media

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